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Appalachian Spring 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1995
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,753
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009

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Appalachian Spring climbs the left line of bolts.

Description 

Generally regarded as one of the best 5.13s at The Red, Appalachian Spring is not your typical jug haul. The route is known for its big moves, in particular 3 successive lunges, each harder than the last. The rest of the climbing is not all that difficult for the grade, but the unbelievable quality & color of the rock make every move enjoyable.

The name is surely a reference to the lush, seepy nature of this wall. Its likely there will be a few wet holds on the route, but its not nearly as bad as its neighbor to the right.

Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. A difficult gaston move above the third bolt is the only difficulty before reaching a horizontal break. Move left and make the first big move to another break. Make another big move, then move right for the third lunge. Now that you're good & pumped, move left and follow brilliant pockets for another 30 feet to the anchor.

Location 

Right of a large fenced-off cave is an orange buttress capped by a 10' horizontal roof. Two sport routes climb this buttress, beginning from a large ledge 10' up, and sharing the first two bolts. Appalachian Spring is the left line.

Protection 

~8 bolts, 2 BA. Stick clip recommended to clip the first bolt off the ledge. There are a number of long sticks sitting on the ledge.


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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 14, 2011

Incredibly good route. I definitely second the beta of stickclipping the first bolts after you've scrambled up to the ledge; it's insecure sloping crimps to get to the first bolt. This, like almost all other routes at FRC, recently was rebolted with glue-ins, all by hand, since this is a wilderness area. Many thanks to the folks that took on this task!