This great route has a bit of everything on it, from scary face climbing with little pro, to a well-protected crux at the end.
Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman and aim for a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it - it would rip right off the wall! From here you can either escape right to a tree, or climb the real route and head up the roof on the left. Put your game face on, because there are a couple of balancy moves before you get to a good rest. Once you're past the roof, head right to a set of chains.
The Uberfall area
I usually bring a light rack with stoppers and finger-sized gear. I don't think you need anything bigger than a green #0.75 Camalot. Your mileage may vary - other folks use hand-size gear below the roof.
Stellar route. I didn't feel that the the opening face was too sketchy. There is one flake of question, and if you can put very little pressure on it and climb on through with confidence, you're fine. Incredible route.
Well, great description of the route, however, and for the full "classic" experience, don't traverse right after the roof, nevermind the bolts (of an adjacent route), just keep going straight up through the final chimney and set up a belay.
Excellent route. The gear is a bit sketch at the small falke, but if you're accustomed to Gunks face climbing the moves are not bad and good gear is available at the next horizontal.
The bolts are not for an adjacent cliumb. The traditional way to finish the climb was straight up after the roof through the chimney, but most everyone traverses right to the bolts to TR the route these days. The chimney may be dirty and grungy by now.
First time that I did the chimney. I think it was more fun/thoughtful then the run for the chains. Bottom part of the climb is a bit reachy for this shorty.
By paulmadry Aug 6, 2009 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I love to climb the route, I hate to lead it. Somehow I have difficulty with placing the pro. It seems a lot of people do. Unfortunatelly the route has seen quite a number of falls, some with injuries. I do not recomend it for early 5.9 climbers.
The V chimney finish is the original line, but if you go right to the bolts, as nearly everyone does these days, you're not really missing much IMO. But here's yet another option, one that adds 30-40' of quality climbing - When you are at the spot post-crux where you would head right to get to the bolts, look out to your left. Plug a blue Camalot in that big horizontal, then climb straight up above it (on what is a rounded arete of sorts, maybe 5.7/8 moves, feels quite exposed) to a stance out left. Get gear here, then climb up to finish on the last few feet of Horseman or if you're a purist, stay just a few feet right of Horseman (a bit dirty and not a lot of gear if you do this latter option).
I led this route again after my comment of Jul 26th. Friends had told me of a bomber pink tricam placement up and right of the flake, and indeed, it's an atypical placement, more pod-like than horizontal, but very good.
And a good thing, too, the flake sounds and feels more insecure than it did a decade ago.
By Jaysen Henderson From: White Plains, New York Mar 21, 2011 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
I had really wanted to lead this line after playing around on everything around it. Everything kindof built up to taking the sharp end and goin up. I was surprised to see that the hardest section was just before the overhang in the inside corners, once you hit the overhang the whole thing is over its a jug haul. The route was a complete mental game, best advice i can give is bring doubles almost triples of bd purple and the green and a few finger sized gear. The purple c4 you place before the roof inspires confidence.
Although I have no real desire to lead it, I would follow this route all day. I feel this is extremely accessible for the rating. However, expect sustained moves (don't go to heavy on your arms) rather than one show stopper and the rest of the climb being relatively easy.
One of my favorite routes. Always surprised by how few stars it gets in the guide books. The flake moves are really not bad, and the crux is well protected and not so bad if you find all of the rests - and move QUICKLY!! This is a great last climb of the day on your way out when you just have a little bit of light left.