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Apollo Reed 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 11,842
Submitted By: bldrite on Jul 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Ian on Apollo Note the taped on bandana for the k...

Description 

A classic jug haul. Some will argue the grade (ie they think it is soft, it may be only 12d but I give credit to Porter and honestly once you have any route dialed it does feel easier...) Tough crux at 2nd bolt with many different sequences, most people use a right knee bar to pull through. Grab anything smaller than a handful for the next 50 feet and look again...jugs abound. Pumpy redpoint crux above 8th bolt, then a fun roof.

Location 

Coliseum Wall, Summersville Lake

Protection 

11 bolts, all but the first one is fixed.


Photos of Apollo Reed Slideshow Add Photo
will anglin dynoing on apollo reed
will anglin dynoing on apollo reed
Pulling the lip.
Pulling the lip.
Stil a ways to go...
Stil a ways to go...
Apollo Reed a vue; quite pumped at this point.
Apollo Reed a vue; quite pumped at this point.
Almost finished!
Almost finished!
Mitch heading into the first crux.
Mitch heading into the first crux.
Chris grinding flesh on a second try send of Apoll...
Chris grinding flesh on a second try send of Apoll...
Mike A flashing Apollo Reed.
Mike A flashing Apollo Reed.
Ian looking strong
Ian looking strong
At "The Shield".
At "The Shield".

Comments on Apollo Reed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007

This route is one of the finest at the grade within 300 miles
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 26, 2007

Check out the video
By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
May 30, 2009

So good it's almost unreal. There are a whole handful of ways to do the bottom crux, fun and juggy climbing to a difficult top section, and then hero jugs to the top. If you climb anywhere from 5.12 to 5.15 you should probably get on this route
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Many a Mid Atlantic climber's first 13a, and mine also. But in the words of Brian McCray (in his Best Sport Climbs of the New River Gorge guidebook), "Everyone's first 13a, until they do a real 13a."
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 29, 2012

I don't really think that the kneebar/shield move at the second bolt is the crux at all. Even if you were to have to climb it pumped (which you don't), it is not too bad once you figure out what sequence you're going to use. The crux is at the 7th and 8th bolts, with a big move and then some smaller holds.