Apollo Reed 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard |
| Submitted By: | bldrite on Jul 6, 2007 |
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Ian on Apollo
Note the taped on bandana for the k...
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Description A classic jug haul. Some will argue the grade (ie they think it is soft, it may be only 12d but I give credit to Porter and honestly once you have any route dialed it does feel easier...) Tough crux at 2nd bolt with many different sequences, most people use a right knee bar to pull through. Grab anything smaller than a handful for the next 50 feet and look again...jugs abound. Pumpy redpoint crux above 8th bolt, then a fun roof.
Location Coliseum Wall, Summersville Lake
Protection 11 bolts, all but the first one is fixed.
Ian looking strong
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Stil a ways to go...
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will anglin dynoing on apollo reed
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Chris grinding flesh on a second try send of Apoll...
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Apollo Reed a vue; quite pumped at this ...
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Mike A flashing Apollo Reed.
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Almost finished!
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Pulling the lip.
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Mitch heading into the first crux.
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At "The Shield".
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007
| This route is one of the finest at the grade within 300 miles |
By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
May 30, 2009
| So good it's almost unreal. There are a whole handful of ways to do the bottom crux, fun and juggy climbing to a difficult top section, and then hero jugs to the top. If you climb anywhere from 5.12 to 5.15 you should probably get on this route |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.12d
| Many a Mid Atlantic climber's first 13a, and mine also. But in the words of Brian McCray (in his Best Sport Climbs of the New River Gorge guidebook), "Everyone's first 13a, until they do a real 13a." |
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
May 29, 2012
| I don't really think that the kneebar/shield move at the second bolt is the crux at all. Even if you were to have to climb it pumped (which you don't), it is not too bad once you figure out what sequence you're going to use. The crux is at the 7th and 8th bolts, with a big move and then some smaller holds. |
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