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A classic jug haul. Some will argue the grade (ie they think it is soft, it may be only 12d but I give credit to Porter and honestly once you have any route dialed it does feel easier...) Tough crux at 2nd bolt with many different sequences, most people use a right knee bar to pull through. Grab anything smaller than a handful for the next 50 feet and look again...jugs abound. Pumpy redpoint crux above 8th bolt, then a fun roof.
Coliseum Wall, Summersville Lake
11 bolts, all but the first one is fixed.
Ian looking strong
Stil a ways to go...
will anglin dynoing on apollo reed
Chris grinding flesh on a second try send of Apoll...
Apollo Reed a vue; quite pumped at this ...
Mike A flashing Apollo Reed.
Pulling the lip.
Mitch heading into the first crux.
At "The Shield".
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007
This route is one of the finest at the grade within 300 miles
|By Andrew Freeman|
From: Brookline, MA
May 30, 2009
So good it's almost unreal. There are a whole handful of ways to do the bottom crux, fun and juggy climbing to a difficult top section, and then hero jugs to the top. If you climb anywhere from 5.12 to 5.15 you should probably get on this route
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Many a Mid Atlantic climber's first 13a, and mine also. But in the words of Brian McCray (in his Best Sport Climbs of the New River Gorge guidebook), "Everyone's first 13a, until they do a real 13a."
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 29, 2012
I don't really think that the kneebar/shield move at the second bolt is the crux at all. Even if you were to have to climb it pumped (which you don't), it is not too bad once you figure out what sequence you're going to use. The crux is at the 7th and 8th bolts, with a big move and then some smaller holds.