Apocalypse Left WI3-4
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Mike Garrity climbing Apocalypse Left...
after mix...
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Description A very fun route the is often overlooked....
The New England Ice Guide doesn't even give it a description let alone a proper name....
The grade is not consistent at all, some days it is grade 3 others it feel much harder with delicate mixed climbing involved....
The far left gully, start on easy terrain heading up the gully and around the big pillar/icicle. If it's a pillar, it shouldn't be too hard. If it's still just touching down, climb on rock to get around it and on to the upper part of the icicle to the top....
Location Left end of Apocalypse Wall....
Protection Screws and slings.
Climb up slab, then spin 180 for final curtain
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| Comments on Apocalypse Left |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 31, 2007
rating: WI4-5
| Last winter, I led "Apocalypse Left," and I can confidently say that it was my most harrowing and fightening lead of my life. Maybe it was the lack of ice in the gully. Maybe it was the 50 degree temps. Maybe I'm just weak, but I really think I came close to buying it on the melted-out topout. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 9, 2007
| Nice story, Jay...haha...I think the route is always awkward, but when it's melting, too...bad news...I had no idea what to grade it.... It might do better with a mixed grade...we should take a vote.... Whoever reads this post a proposed grade...if you've done it.... If not.... Go do it, it's fun.... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 18, 2008
| cool... id love to get more opinions so we can find a true consensus... |
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2009
rating: WI3+
| What a fun climb! Gorgeous plastic ice went all the way up the back and right of the gully until the top where it switched to a 8 foot curtain on the left. From other people's descriptions, I must have gotten some pretty fat conditions. Definitely no harder than 3+. |
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 7, 2009
rating: WI3-4
| I think anything above grade 4 would be over kill....and as it is now, which is how i've always seen it, there's no mixed climbing necessary...perhaps i'ce always seen it fat? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 7, 2009
| right now i think it is awkward grade 3 but it gets harder and mixed for sure... |
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