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Ape Call 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress, and Ants Leemets 1962
Page Views: 3,862
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Getting to the ape-call moment.

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure between Laughing Man to V-3 MORE INFO >>>


Fun climbing with drastically different pitches!

P1- Ease up the unprotected slab and test your gear placement artistry. Once set, bust a couple thin moves up to the left facing corner. Climb up to a nice belay.

P2- The monkey business. Climb up to the roof and move a bit left. Pull the roof and try to stop smiling. Move right to the RMC belay tree.


On the obvious slab 40 feet right of Pink Laurel and just left of a flaring chimney.


Standard rack with micronuts and/or extremely small cams.

Photos of Ape Call Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux #2 but a bit more well protected.  I think it...
Crux #2 but a bit more well protected. I think it...
Rock Climbing Photo: The slab.
The slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the slabby start.
Finishing the slabby start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shirley on the initial slab.
Shirley on the initial slab.

Comments on Ape Call Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2016
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 11, 2008

Where exactly is the PG-13 section of this route? Is it on the first or second pitch?
By Ross Fadely
Jan 11, 2008

The PG-13 section is on the first pitch. The initial slab has no gear and the only gear protecting the crux is extremely small.
By jd4567
From: New York, NY
Aug 17, 2008

The initial thin moves up the middle of the face are basically unprotectable. There is a low horizontal placement that is solid, but the next horizontal is thin, shallow, and mostly flaring. Two #4 or smaller nuts placed horizontally in opposition might hold, but I wouldn't bet on it. A fall at or near the next available placement opportunity (the first move in the lower crux) would likely result in groundfall. The juggy roof at the top of the climb is super fun. There is no need to break the climb into two pitches unless you intend to top out via RMC.
By Ross Fadely
Apr 16, 2009

Yeah, the climb may be R... I found some good ways to set small nuts. Equalized with a screamer, it felt better than some pieces Ive seen. Then again, I have a small gear fetish and may have had just the right pieces.
By jd4567
From: New York, NY
Nov 1, 2009

There is a report of a climber on Ape Call breaking his back in a groundfall on 10/26/09:
By J. Nickel
Nov 2, 2009

Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.
By Ross Fadely
Nov 5, 2009

Ok, changed the gear rating based on recent events, comments, and consensus.
By mattc81
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

black C3 in one of the little horizontals seemed to make the move relatively safe.
By Michael G
May 21, 2013

Matt, BD doesn't make a black C3.
By mattc81
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I was referring to the size 000 dark grey or black c3. I guess it's probably more grey than black. Just solo the first slab part anyway you don't need any gear beta it's like 5.5. The upper ceiling section is the good part.
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
May 28, 2013

I was confused by the "black C3" comment too. I figured the C3 part was wrong, not the color.
By Tanner B.
Jul 13, 2015

Climbed this a couple of days ago. On my first try I placed a pair of pieces in the prominent first horizontal crack but nothing in the much smaller one above. I fell at the crux and with a good belay ended up about 4-5 feet off the ground...although I did flip upside down a bit since it's pretty low angle.

On the second attempt a friendly bystander suggested I try to place gear in the smaller horizontal cracks that I had pretty much written off completely the first time around. I managed to get in a purple C3 and a grey wild country zero; I would hardly describe it as bomber, but when i equalized them and gave it a few tugs it certainly seemed like it might hold! This time around I also scanned the wall much more thoroughly for footholds and found what I needed to get up to the next crack, at which point I was able to put in a solid #1. So yeah, the gear is fine--probably not even R--and the crux move is really not bad if you find the sequence.

I would also add that if you're planning on bringing your second up from the rap station (static rope with two rings attached to a tree) to climber's right of the finish of the roof, you will want to put in a directional above the roof. I put in a #3 above 5-6 feet above the lip. If there are no parties on the second pitch and you have enough gear leftover, you could also consider going directly above the roof maybe 20 or so feet to a fixed pin and build an anchor there. The second pitch didn't look that exciting so we bailed at the rap station, but I suspect you could make it to the top with a 60m rope without too much rope drag if you had enough long runners and the foresight to throw in a good directional for your second above the roof.
By Aaron Hwang
Oct 19, 2015

There are some seriously loose chalked up blocks right beneath the P2 roof as of 10/18/2015. Be careful not to yank them down on your belayer while pulling the roof.
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Mar 3, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Pretty well protected with modern gear. Equalizing a 000 and 00 c3 just before the p1 crux seems pretty bomb to me.
By Jeffrey Dunn
3 days ago

I didn't like the small cams in the thin horizontal, but found really good offset brassies.

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