Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ape Call 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress, and Ants Leemets 1962
Page Views: 2,940
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting to the ape-call moment.

Description 

Fun climbing with drastically different pitches!

P1- Ease up the unprotected slab and test your gear placement artistry. Once set, bust a couple thin moves up to the left facing corner. Climb up to a nice belay.

P2- The monkey business. Climb up to the roof and move a bit left. Pull the roof and try to stop smiling. Move right to the RMC belay tree.


Location 

On the obvious slab 40 feet right of Pink Laurel and just left of a flaring chimney.


Protection 

Standard rack with micronuts and/or extremely small cams.



Photos of Ape Call Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Finishing the slabby start.
Finishing the slabby start.
The slab.
The slab.
Shirley on the initial slab.
Shirley on the initial slab.
Comments on Ape Call Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 28, 2013
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 11, 2008

Where exactly is the PG-13 section of this route? Is it on the first or second pitch?

By Ross Fadely
Jan 11, 2008

The PG-13 section is on the first pitch. The initial slab has no gear and the only gear protecting the crux is extremely small.

By jd4567
From: New York, NY
Aug 17, 2008

The initial thin moves up the middle of the face are basically unprotectable. There is a low horizontal placement that is solid, but the next horizontal is thin, shallow, and mostly flaring. Two #4 or smaller nuts placed horizontally in opposition might hold, but I wouldn't bet on it. A fall at or near the next available placement opportunity (the first move in the lower crux) would likely result in groundfall. The juggy roof at the top of the climb is super fun. There is no need to break the climb into two pitches unless you intend to top out via RMC.

By Ross Fadely
Apr 16, 2009

Yeah, the climb may be R... I found some good ways to set small nuts. Equalized with a screamer, it felt better than some pieces Ive seen. Then again, I have a small gear fetish and may have had just the right pieces.

By jd4567
From: New York, NY
Nov 1, 2009

There is a report of a climber on Ape Call breaking his back in a groundfall on 10/26/09:

www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2228910;s>>>

By J. Nickel
Nov 2, 2009

Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.

By Ross Fadely
Nov 5, 2009

Ok, changed the gear rating based on recent events, comments, and consensus.

By mattc81
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

black C3 in one of the little horizontals seemed to make the move relatively safe.

By Michael G
May 21, 2013

Matt, BD doesn't make a black C3.

By mattc81
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I was referring to the size 000 dark grey or black c3. I guess it's probably more grey than black. Just solo the first slab part anyway you don't need any gear beta it's like 5.5. The upper ceiling section is the good part.

By Larry S
May 28, 2013

I was confused by the "black C3" comment too. I figured the C3 part was wrong, not the color.