Ape Call 5.8 R
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress, and Ants Leemets 1962 |
| Submitted By: | Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008 |
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Getting to the ape-call moment.
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2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Fun climbing with drastically different pitches!
P1- Ease up the unprotected slab and test your gear placement artistry. Once set, bust a couple thin moves up to the left facing corner. Climb up to a nice belay.
P2- The monkey business. Climb up to the roof and move a bit left. Pull the roof and try to stop smiling. Move right to the RMC belay tree.
Location On the obvious slab 40 feet right of Pink Laurel and just left of a flaring chimney.
Protection Standard rack with micronuts and/or extremely small cams.
Finishing the slabby start.
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Shirley on the initial slab.
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The slab.
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Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jan 11, 2008
| Where exactly is the PG-13 section of this route? Is it on the first or second pitch? |
By Ross Fadely
Jan 11, 2008
| The PG-13 section is on the first pitch. The initial slab has no gear and the only gear protecting the crux is extremely small. |
By Jared Danziger
From: New York, NY
Aug 17, 2008
| The initial thin moves up the middle of the face are basically unprotectable. There is a low horizontal placement that is solid, but the next horizontal is thin, shallow, and mostly flaring. Two #4 or smaller nuts placed horizontally in opposition might hold, but I wouldn't bet on it. A fall at or near the next available placement opportunity (the first move in the lower crux) would likely result in groundfall. The juggy roof at the top of the climb is super fun. There is no need to break the climb into two pitches unless you intend to top out via RMC. |
By Ross Fadely
Apr 16, 2009
| Yeah, the climb may be R... I found some good ways to set small nuts. Equalized with a screamer, it felt better than some pieces Ive seen. Then again, I have a small gear fetish and may have had just the right pieces. |
By J. Nickel
Nov 2, 2009
| Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up. |
By Ross Fadely
Nov 5, 2009
| Ok, changed the gear rating based on recent events, comments, and consensus. |
By mattc81
4 days ago
rating: 5.8 PG13
| black C3 in one of the little horizontals seemed to make the move relatively safe. |
By Michael G
4 days ago
| Matt, BD doesn't make a black C3. |
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