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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alex Garhart and Toni Walters, April 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,054
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Apr 5, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The route


Begin in a thin open book corner right of the obvious bolt. Work your way up to a couple of small holds and a stance where you can reach left and clip a bolt. Make a delicate leftwards traverse to a good flake and mantle to another flake where you can reach a less than tips splitter on the left that takes 00 and 0 C3's. Make a fun bouldery move out of a pod to gain a small horizontal flake and a good stance below a small right facing corner. Climb tips to perfect fingers up the corner to a fingers/off-fingers splitter that goes to the chains.


First route left of Bromance.


Small tcu's, tips, fingers and off-fingers, 1 QD. Chain anchor.

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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 12, 2010

I was wondering if you would be into a bolt for this climb because it looked a little consequential to fall at the traverse or bottom area. i think it would attract more traffic that way.

By Alex Garhart
Apr 15, 2010

I was torn about adding a bolt to the lower section. The pro is decent high on the far right but makes the traverse heady because of the swing/deck potential. After the traverse a #00 black diamond is pretty solid in the small splitter. A bolt would make the route safer and I'm sure somebody would send the direct start. Next time I come out I'll bring the drill if somebody doesn't get there first. Thanks for the feedback. -Alex

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 20, 2010

Sounds good Alex.

By Alex Garhart
May 2, 2011

I finally added a bolt to the lower section of the route, so the traverse is safe. One of the flakes exfoliated this spring making the boulder sequence a little easier. After the traverse a #11 offset DMM nut was really nice to have for the small slot above the splitter.

By Devin Fin
Mar 18, 2012

Alex what a line! You have done a killer job on this route an all yer other routes. It climbs much safer now. Thanks for your work. DF

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Nov 4, 2013

Anyone know who put up the new route "try me".12 to the right ? It's hard compression climbing!