Apathetic Womb 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Mills & Pon, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | John Marsella on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Grovelly fun one wet May in the land of deer poop.
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Description This trad line starts by jamming through a short bulge, then moving up easy rock. Grunt through a slot (the crux) and onto easy territory again. Belay from a small tree.
Location This is just left of the left-most bolted route on The Shrine. The crack & bulge are apparent.
The easiest descent is probably from bolted anchors of the adjacent route (right), but you can walk off to climber's left, head downhill, then squeeze through a slot back toward the base of the crag (otherwise, you end up below where you want to be).
Protection #3 Camalot down low and an assortment of medium gear. The guide suggests a #4, but we did not place it.
There are bolted anchors for an adjacent route if you want to use them instead of belaying from a small tree.
| Comments on Apathetic Womb |
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By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012
| First trad lead on this route today! My partner found a big loose rock about halfway up, I found the route a tiny bit sandy but quite fun otherwise! Good placements (in my newbie opinion) for medium and large nuts. I didn't really miss the #4 much, but if you had some large cams, you could better protect the upper part of the offwidth - not sure if #4 would be big enough though.
The bolt anchor from next door on Reap What You Sew - difficult to equally load the two bolts with the fixed hardware up there - could use an upgrade. |
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