Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Shrine of Vanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All We Like Sheep 
Apathetic Womb 
Gluttonous Ego 
Here We Go Again 
Reap What You Sew 
Simply Complicated 
Slap My Bitch Up 

Apathetic Womb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mills & Pon, 2002
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: John Marsella on Mar 16, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Grovelly fun one wet May in the land of deer poop.

Description 

This trad line starts by jamming through a short bulge, then moving up easy rock. Grunt through a slot (the crux) and onto easy territory again. Belay from a small tree.


Location 

This is just left of the left-most bolted route on The Shrine. The crack & bulge are apparent.

The easiest descent is probably from bolted anchors of the adjacent route (right), but you can walk off to climber's left, head downhill, then squeeze through a slot back toward the base of the crag (otherwise, you end up below where you want to be).


Protection 

#3 Camalot down low and an assortment of medium gear. The guide suggests a #4, but we did not place it.

There are bolted anchors for an adjacent route if you want to use them instead of belaying from a small tree.



Comments on Apathetic Womb Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012

First trad lead on this route today! My partner found a big loose rock about halfway up, I found the route a tiny bit sandy but quite fun otherwise! Good placements (in my newbie opinion) for medium and large nuts. I didn't really miss the #4 much, but if you had some large cams, you could better protect the upper part of the offwidth - not sure if #4 would be big enough though.

The bolt anchor from next door on Reap What You Sew - difficult to equally load the two bolts with the fixed hardware up there - could use an upgrade.