Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve Grossman, Peter Noebels, Paul Davidson 1986
Page Views: 1,934 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 25, 2007
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Start on right side of ledge below the roof in the middle of the Dome. Climbs up to the three parallel vertical cracks that deposit you onto sustained section of slab before gaining the end of the Shake N Bake crack. 

P1) 5.11- * 60': do a tricky mantle with a bolt to a shelf. Traverse right (5.7 R) when the rock starts to deteriorate, belay at a stance below the roof with a bolt visible up & left. 

1 bolt, single #1 & #2

4" gear for belay

P2) 5.10 R *** 160': Follow roof left to a bolt then up through airy & committing moves to gain the discontinuous flared cracks then to the face above, following 4 bolts through difficult & committing climbing then head up & left to a chickenhead patch.

5 bolts, gear to 1.5"

belay in crack 3"-4"

P3) 5.7 R ** 80': join "Wishbone" for it's last pitch, heading up & right through runout slab to the chickenhead top out. 

Descent: standard rappels down the SW Face or scramble off to the NE

Best climbed on a very cold winter day or in the shade. 

Location Suggest change

Center of Stronghold dome. SG has climbed the second pitch with 3 bolts, but rapped down and added a 4th so the route might get done.

Protection Suggest change

gear to 1.5", offsets helpful

belays take 3"- 4" gear

Photos

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