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Apache Peak

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Rook, The 
White Knight 

Apache Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,441'
Location: 40.0583, -105.651 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,789
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Sep 1, 2005
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Apache Peak, late March 2006

Routes Queen's Way, ...

Description 

Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.

Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.


Getting There 

Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Apache Peak:
Queen's Way   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 2000'   
Kasparov Traverse   R     Trad, Alpine, 2000'   
The Queen   5.0 2- 4 I MM 1c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Bishop's Scepter   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Rook   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Apache Peak

Featured Route For Apache Peak
Mark Oveson on top of the Rook

The Rook 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Apache Peak
The Rook is south of the Bishop and slightly west of the Shoshoni-Apache ridge. It can be seen from the Isabelle Glacier cirque and from many points along the Kasparov Traverse and is justifyably the focus of attention. The rook is tall, round, and steep from all sides. The capstone creates overhangs on several aspects. The whole tower seems to lean out to the west over the expanse of air above Lone Eagle Cirque. The whole project looks improbable from every angle.From a position south of t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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