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Apache Peak

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Bishop's Scepter T 
Bishop, The T 
Black Knight T 
Kasparov Traverse T 
King's Pawn T 
King, The T 
Queen's Way 
Queen, The T 
Rook, The T 
White Knight T 

Apache Peak Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,441'
Location: 40.0583, -105.651 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,690
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Sep 1, 2005
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Apache Peak, late March 2006 Routes Queen's Way, ...


Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.

Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.

Getting There 

Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Apache Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Apache Peak:
Queen's Way   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 2000'   
Kasparov Traverse   R     Trad, Alpine, 2000'   
The Queen   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Bishop's Scepter   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Rook   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Apache Peak

Featured Route For Apache Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kasparov Traverse, with some major towers note...

Kasparov Traverse CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Apache Peak
The ridge between Shoshoni Peak and Apache Peak is one of the best ridge traverses in the Indian Peaks. The rock is solid, the ridge provides plenty of scrambling and routefinding challenges, and the setting is superb. Best of all, the ridge is dotted with tower formations that beg to be climbed. Gerry Roach refers to these towers as the Chessmen, but in his guidebook he says he knows of no recorded climbs on them. The Chessmen have dwelt in obscurity for years. For better or worse, the Che...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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