Apache Peak Rock Climbing
Apache Peak, late March 2006 Routes Queen's Way, ...
Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.
Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.
Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.
Weather station 4.0 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Apache Peak
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Apache Peak
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Apache Peak:
The Queen 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
The Rook 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Apache Peak
Bishop's Scepter 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Apache Peak
The Bishop's Scepter is a stunning, narrow spire just west of and downhill from the Bishop. It looks much harder than it turns out to be. In fact, the climbing is clean, fun, reasonbly well protected, and only 5.6 in difficulty. The top of the spire is so narrow that a regular 2-foot diameter sling will easily go around it.From a comfortable belay east of the spire, make a few moves to engage its east face. Move up and right to a subsidiary thumb that you can stand on to place some gear. Fr...[more] Browse More Classics in CO