This is a great route to work on for your first 12 for a couple reasons. First, a little crux at the start and a fun crux at the end. Second, it is super well bolted and you can easily aid it to get your gear back. On the 2150 wall, this is the 3rd route from the left, and it is pretty obvious by the number of bolts on it. Getting through the first part is a bit technical and footsy. The middle part is pretty casual. Then, up top it gets a bit steeper and you have some sweet little pockets to play with. When you are at the anchors, stop, rest, and have a look around. The scenery is worth the effort.
11 bolts and bolted anchor.
Pockets at the hard start.
|By Tom Hanson|
Oct 3, 2001
Check the spelling on this route name.
|By William Prehm|
Nov 1, 2001
Spelling is correct if it is named after an album by the Grateful Dead with the same name.
|By Darryl Roth|
Apr 20, 2003
FA: Darryl Roth, and, yes it is named after the "Dead" album.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 5, 2010
I don't know as much about climbing as I do 'bout the Dead. Aoxomoxoa. Palindrome.
|By Zane Dordai|
Feb 3, 2013
Enjoyable moves, but a very, very sharp crux at the top had me almost bleeding after only a handful of attempts. Beautiful rock, great sequences and excellent protection, but razor sharp in spots, more so than others on this wall.
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Really fun route and well protected, although it is advantageous to have the draws pre-hung (couple clips just out of reach). The upper crux really drives home the old "try to get as much weight on your feet" mantra....
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 14, 2013
Hardware updated courtesy of Bob D'Antonio, Bruno Hache, and ASCA.