mmmmm gear! I love it all! :)

If you really want to see some heavy stuff watch "The Sharp End" climbing movie. These German guys protect with knots tied in different diameter slings.

Thoroughly enjoyable post/thread. Nice to see that most people here aren't afraid to let the advancement of equipment be an insult to the first ascent party. I personally think that all of the gear choices we have these days allows everyone to climb at their own comfort level, regardless of which equipment they choose to use. I was always taught to use my passive pro first, saving the active pro for desperate stances. And I have done entire pitches with only passive gear, but the cams are always included on my rack. Thanks to all those climbers for sharing their "early years" stories and equipment choices with us.

I keep odd numbered hexes from #3 through #11 on my rack. I don't place 'em on lead too much unless I've got a good stance where I can hang out an extra moment to make a good placement. But, a solid hex placement is very confidence-inspiring; hexes generally don't walk.

I've found the big hexes to be especially useful in anchors. The advantage to this (I think J. Albers mentioned this earlier) is that for every hex you use in an anchor, you have an additional cam to use on the next pitch.

They also weigh less and cost less (a LOT less) than cams. It's kind of a shame that hex placement is slowly becoming a lost art. This is an entertaining thread...but it makes me feel (at 45) like an old-timer!

I always use passive only if I think I can lead it safely. Placing passive pro is definitely becoming a lost art. Cams feel like cheating to me. Plus, passive pro is way cheaper.

I try to place hexs on every climb I do for old school points. Also, Jimmie Dunn is a climbing partner of mine. So, I have tried a few times to repete some of his first accents with the same rack that he used... I've never sent one yet or have I come close, very scary stuff!!! I climb a lot with a passive rack only. I find that passive gear gives me the warm fuzzies more that cams, but can make the second go crazy(get pissed) if they are not good at removing gear.

I love cams. I hate hexes. I place cams on every lead I do. Period. Sometimes I only place cams (collective gasp from the crowd). Cams are one of my favorite things about climbing. Cams and chalk. And sometimes tick marks.

Jay, I'm sorry to report that The Knights of Chouinard had a meeting and you are now banned from trad climbing.

If by "trad" you mean barefoot, chalkless, and camless climbing, then I'll happily submit my resignation.

I have this funny feeling that I would be quite irritated following most of the folks posting on this forum :)

Either that, or they can slam in, and clean, passive gear much faster than I can.

I have a rack of ~40 pro - no doubles yet. I have been climbing ~ten years - top-rope or trad (+ice) .

I have added cams to my rack only during last year. Now I have three bought cams + 1 booty.

As I will need more upward protection in future I plan to add few more cams in future.

what is it they say?
"every time a hex rings an angel loses its wings?"

It's not uncommon in Red Rock to lead pitches on passive gear alone, many pitches eat nuts, and such, although it is nice to have those cams on you too.

On the contrary, I showed up at Cathedral, NH with a full modern rack (or two) except we forgot the nuts somehow. We thought about climbing without them, and decided to bail to the gear shop for the cheapest set of consignment. I think we had 6 for $18. They made all the difference.

Hexes are lighter than cams and have a good range. Of course I like cams just fine.

This is an annoying thread. Nuts are great. I use them in constrictions. Cams are great. I use them in parallels. Hexes and Tricams are okay. If you insist on using them instead of SLCDs thats your deal. People did a lot of stuff before there was new stuff. People backpacked with external frames, wore heavy wafflestompers, and wore cotton. Technology advances. Safety increases. If you want to buy cams and use them primarily whats the deal? It doesn't make you a lazy climber, it just makes you a climber of your generation. I don't really see why its worth anyone's time (including my own right now) to debate the merits of cams. They won. Along with internal frame packs, trail runners, sticky rock shoes, and technical fabrics.

I have been thinking of adding a few hexes to my rack for mod trad in the Sandias. The rock is a fractured granite and there are alot of cracks that are narrow at the front and then open way up inside. Perfect for a med size hex to drop in like a stopper.

Of course, I agree that 90% of time a cam is faster to clean for sure.

This pic is from the 4th of July, just 3 or 4 years ago, at Tahquitz. I have a tradition of climbing only on hexes and nuts on the 4th as a celebration of the history of American traditional free climbing. I guess I'm a real dork that way.

painter's pants, bandana, high tops, and hexes. Submitted By: Nick Barczak on May 14, 2012

I learned on completely passive gear. Since then I have supplemented my rack with a 1-6 set of cams, mostly for my partner to lead with, but i prefer passive placements currently. Also, something you could look into is "Pebble Pro". Most people ive met havent heard of it, but it was how they lead climbs before machined nuts and hexes.