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Anyone know the oldest climbers to send hard routes?
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By Lundy Bancroft
May 13, 2013
I'm trying to find out the oldest person to ever send 5.13, and same for 5.12. I'm also interested in the oldest person to send those grades for the first time in their life.

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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
May 13, 2013
Lee Sheftel did his first 5.14a @ 59 8-9 years ago. Of course there's Steve Hong, closing in on 60 & still climbs 5.14s. Are they old enough for you?

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By Ian Cavanaugh
May 13, 2013
i watched jim donini walk a few .12 in the moab area last year.

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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
May 13, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Someone more motivated could find it, but there was an article in the past year about a 50+ man pushing into the 13's or 14's, it may have been Ondra's dad actually.

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By SMR
May 13, 2013
Novata Marino (Spain) climbed 5.14a at the age of 60.
climbingnarc.com/videos/60-yea...

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By Darren Knezek
May 13, 2013
A route I established at The Overlook called, Photo Opp. Rated 10d.
Stevie Haston did his first 14d at the age of 52.

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By Lundy Bancroft
May 14, 2013
These are awesome! Thank you so much. I had no idea that people were doing 5.14s in their 50's -- that's extra-inspiring!

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
May 14, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
Obligatory shoutout to Chuck Odette goes here.

dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/...

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By Eric Engberg
May 14, 2013
The names and feats mentioned upstream have been highly publicized in the Anglo/American press the past few years. Less well publicized are the feats of some Eastrn Euros which are are likely on par. And if you want to get into the shakey game of comparing routes to boulders then what has been and is being done by some of the "elderly" at Bleau far surpasses the above.

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By Jared Garfield
May 14, 2013
Romancing the Stone
I believe it was rock and ice that had a video of a 60+ year old guy who climbed 5.14d in Spain

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 16, 2013
...
At 58 I can easily do a 4.1

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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
May 16, 2013
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
Donini/Lowe at 70/69 are getting ready to attempt a NIAD (Nose in a Day) on El Cap in the immediate future.

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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
May 16, 2013
Me
I vaguely remember an old geezer (about 68) doing laps on Pump o'Rama (13a) in the arsenal a couple summers ago.

Id be more interested in what the oldest ascent of a v10 or harder. Seems like maintaining power like that would be really unusual.

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By Peteoria
May 16, 2013
Roger Briggs, nearly 70, still climbs huge, multipitch, scary .12s in the Black Canyon regularly.

Age aside, there are far, far more people who can climb 5.13 & 5.14 sport while only a handful of people in all of human history have ever had "fun" on 5.12s in the Black.

In the Eldo guidebook, Briggs at 66 climbed the Diving Board, an OWish 5.11. Word is he said it was much easier now than when he first did it in his 20's due to technique.

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By Jerry
May 16, 2013
The "Old Geezer" mentioned is Herman Golner, he sent "Pump O Rama" again last year at I think 69, with two new knees. He will be in Rifle again this summer, probably still cranking.
So you know that geezer has put a lot of work in that canyon.

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By chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
May 16, 2013
No one cares about older climbers. The mags say so. Only young climbers under 18 matter. If they are under 10, even better.

Never mind that their tendons repair instantly and they wiegh nothing. They prove they have an attention span longer than their peers, so they are stars.

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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
May 16, 2013
Half Dome
I saw a video of some Spanish guy in his 60's sending 14b. Maybe it was this Novata Marino already mentioned.

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By frankstoneline
May 16, 2013
David Sahalie wrote:
No one cares about older climbers. The mags say so. Only young climbers under 18 matter. If they are under 10, even better. Never mind that their tendons repair instantly and they wiegh nothing. They prove they have an attention span longer than their peers, so they are stars.


Bitter much?

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By chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
May 16, 2013
Not really, I just don't have Ashima worship syndrome like everyone else at Hueco had this year.

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By frankstoneline
May 16, 2013
David Sahalie wrote:
Not really, I just don't have Ashima worship syndrome like everyone else at Hueco had this year.


Her following is getting pretty ridiculous, though to me big numbers are big numbers and pretty rad no matter who is climbing them.

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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
May 17, 2013
Me and Spearhead
Not sure if you consider 54 old, but Beat Kammerlander impresses the hell out of me.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 17, 2013
El Chorro
Didn't Lynn Hill climb her first 5.14d at the age of 40? I know that's not old but she's the only woman mentioned in this thread and it was her FIRST 14d.

There are plenty of climbers all over France, Spain and the rest of Europe that climb 5.14 into their 50s and 60s. A more interesting question might be this:

What is the longest duration of time between two 5.14 sends by the same person? ie, who has been climbing 5.14 for the longest period of time?

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
May 17, 2013
Stabby
Anyone remember that farmer who started climbing in his mid-70's and was crushing 5.12? That was back in the 90's I think.

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By David Rivers
May 17, 2013
East Beach bouldering
Hey Mike,

Gene Larson was the Iowa farmer who took up climbing in his late 50's or early 60's and was putting up 12's ground up in his 70's in the Black Hills.

He was profiled with several other Black Hills locals in a Paul Piana article for Climbing back in the late 1980's.

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By Lundy Bancroft
May 20, 2013
Actually, I was about to put up a follow-up question along the lines of the last couple of comments, which was to ask what people know about climbers who didn't start climbing seriously until around age 50 or so, (or 45, whatever), and how far they got. I'd love to hear more about that if people have other stories.

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By lunabloomgirl
From North East Washington
May 20, 2013
Chuck Odette is at that 5.14 and in his late 50's I believe.
He is something to watch!

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