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Anyone know the details of making sawed angles?
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Feb 7, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: the glorious pitch 7
I need to make some sawed angles for a trip in may and I'm not sure what length to cut them. Also what size pitons/baby angles would you recomend for making sawed angles? brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Joined Jan 13, 2009
401 points
Feb 8, 2012
One, if I had to guess you want them for the Shield. If so, go easy on the hammer since it's gone clean about 20 yrs. ago. I hear about people still nailing on sections that I climbed pretty easily with TCUs just because they freaked with the exposure. Try to score some offset cams and you'll be happy. OK, enough preaching.

Two, just chop them with a hacksaw and use a grinder or file to round off the edges. Easy.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
175 points
Feb 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: the glorious pitch 7
I'm considering several walls in Yosemite. Planning on clean aid but I'm still going to take the the gear it calls for in the the yosemite big wall book. brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Joined Jan 13, 2009
401 points
Feb 8, 2012
From my buddy who climbed Mescalito with me last summer:

Yeah, cutting off 40% of the angle is reasonable. Between 1/3 and 1/2.
Any more and there really isn't much taper left.

We sawed two 3/4" and two 1" angles - never used them - climbed the line entirely with clean aid.

Climb Ohn. Wally
Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
32 points
Feb 8, 2012
I don't know how many you'll need, but you may want to take more than one of each size, since the dimension of the pin is going to be different depending on where you chop it. Say, one where you chop it about 1/3 down and another about 1/2. If you have just one size and it's not quite right, you may have problems. Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
175 points
Feb 9, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
I used a hack saw. Easy as pie. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Feb 9, 2012
Even easier - just loan your pins to Chris and he'll give 'em back sawed off. David Sweet
From Moscow, ID
Joined Jan 30, 2007
431 points
Feb 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: On the North America Wall in 1977.
I used a caborundum (?) blade on a Skil saw and cut only 1/3 off of them. I cut a few in half but they are way too short. Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
323 points
Mar 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex ...
Ha! There we go, I actually used my index.

Here's the answer:

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum...

Actually, this will take you there more directly:

rockclimbing.com/Articles/Big_...

Do a "control + F" find-search for "sawed" in the Checklist above and you will get your answer.

I used hardly any sawed-offs on The Shield, incidentally. I probably shouldn't tell you this, but big Peckers work just fine and with minimal [but not non-existent] nailing impact in the crack between the big-ass ugly pinscars. Or you can fiddle around with offset cams and hand-placed sawed-offs.

Typically with sawed-offs, I will hand-place them. Then I will hit them with my hammer. {wink}
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Joined Dec 8, 2007
645 points


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