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Anyone else on mp heading to Yosemite for the AAC climbers meetup?
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By Damnboys
From Adams, Massachusetts
Sep 16, 2013
Hi all,
Looking forward to meeting you and getting some world class climbing in!
Looking to do some moderate multi-pitch which for me means probably 5.8. I hear it is slick out there.
See you in a couple of weeks,
Chris

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By Cor
Sep 16, 2013
black nasty
Kurtz,

We don't really have a power hook up in the Valley (at camp where we will be)
so I am not seeing that happen. After the event we have some places to share
photos (like here, or Facebook) that you think are good, or of new friends you make...

Hope this helps. It would be awesome to have a upload station & screen at camp though.

Cheers,
Cory

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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Sep 16, 2013
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage
Hey Cor,

Is Arrowhead Arete a reasonable, moderate long-day climb? The pictures of the ridge near the summit look amazing.

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By Mike Grainger
From Waterloo, ON Canada
Sep 17, 2013
I've had my eye on Arrowhead Arete as well. From what I've read it's an adventurous outing - after a cragging day or two you'll have a better idea if Yosemite 5.8+ feels moderate to you. I'll be interested in what Cor has to say about this one.

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By Tim Jones
Sep 17, 2013
Hi all

I'm starting to think about sorting the rack and selecting which gear to bring. Nuts and cams seem to be a definite yes, are hexes any use in the valley or shall I save the weight on my already stretched luggage allowance?

Cheers

Tim

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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Sep 17, 2013
Edge of a Dream
I'm going add my two cents into the conversation while were on the topic of 'classic' lines. I've climbed a lot of the popular moderates (i.e. Royal Arches, Snake Dike, Commitment, etc.) and have still yet to find a climb that compares to the fun I had on mountainproject.com/v/goodrich.... If your into amazing slab climbing, this is the line to do.

Also I'll be in the Valley all October but I'm not participating in the AAC MeetUp in particular. Hope to meet some fellow climbers! Have Fun!

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By Carol Kotchek
From Louisville, Colorado
Sep 17, 2013
Veedauwoo off width clinic
I'm not sure about the picture posting while we are there. Later we can post on the International Climber's Meet Facebook page.

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By Carol Kotchek
From Louisville, Colorado
Sep 17, 2013
Veedauwoo off width clinic
Tim Jones wrote:
Hi all I'm starting to think about sorting the rack and selecting which gear to bring. Nuts and cams seem to be a definite yes, are hexes any use in the valley or shall I save the weight on my already stretched luggage allowance? Cheers Tim


Hi Tim,
Hexes will work in the Valley but I think it depends on how hard you want to climb. I don't like fiddling with hexes on anything hard at all. If your strapped for room in your bag I would leave them behind. Stoppers work super well.
Carol

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By Tim Jones
Sep 17, 2013
Carol Kotchek wrote:
Hi Tim, Hexes will work in the Valley but I think it depends on how hard you want to climb. I don't like fiddling with hexes on anything hard at all. If your strapped for room in your bag I would leave them behind. Stoppers work super well. Carol


Thanks Carol, I'll mov ethem down the priority list a little. Whilst I would agree that they can be fiddly I do fiund them super versatile where you can relax a little whilst placing gear.

Cheers

Tim

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By Cor
Sep 17, 2013
black nasty
Sorry for late responses... The floods have me going crazy around here. Many people want my services, but there is only so much of me to go around... sigh...

So to answer a few questions. Nuts, and cams! A double set is good. up to a #3 or 4 BD

I will try to bring some OW gear as well.

Other items that prove to be very useful is the little brass offset nuts,
and offset cams for the classic pin scars. In the small size cams I usually carry
a regular small set (.5 BD size and down) and an offset set.



Cheers,
C

PS: I have not done the Arrowhead Arete. So I can't provide the beta on this one.
What formation is this one on? Maybe we should do it!

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By slim
Administrator
Sep 17, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Cor wrote:
Slim, is this the payment you expect for me borrowing your Valley Giants & Big Bros?!?!

Sheep ranch should cover the valley giants. I should probably tack on freerider for the big bros!

Carol is on the verge of a horrifying epiphany... :)

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By Mike Grainger
From Waterloo, ON Canada
Sep 17, 2013
@Jonathan
I did the Goodrich Pinnacle at the ICM two years ago. I agree - very high quality. I am not a slab lover, so following that traverse on pitch 6 had me cursing a blue streak. A couple of other parties backed off after pitch 5 - I guess that was enough slab goodness for them.
@Cor
More about Arrowhead Arete here:mountainproject.com/v/arrowhea...
It's also on the Supertopo Yosemite Valley Free Climbs guide. Sounds like the approach keeps a lot of people away.

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By Tim Jones
Sep 17, 2013
and offset cams for the classic pin scars. In the small size cams I usually carry a regular small set (.5 BD size and down) and an offset set.


Hi Cor

What size offset cams fit the pin scars?

I only own one and I was about to sell it to a friend as I couldn't see myself having a lot of use for it? I think it's a Wild Country 2.0/2.5 so I'm guessing it's too big to be really useful?

Cheers

Tim

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By Peteoria
Sep 17, 2013
Any chance for volunteer work? Something about the cost spoiled my dinner...

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By Rob Dillon
Sep 17, 2013
Reminder: I'm driving my pickup to CA on Sunday 9/22 from Leadville. Holler if you want a ride.

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By Anastasia Katochianou
From Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2013
Hi all! Which Yosemite Rock Climbing Guide book would you recommend me to buy?

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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Sep 17, 2013
Anastasia Katochianou wrote:
Hi all! Which Yosemite Rock Climbing Guide book would you recommend me to buy?


This would be a good start:

supertopo.com/packs/yofreeclim...

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By Damnboys
From Adams, Massachusetts
Sep 18, 2013
Hi all, has anyone flown with a rack as carry-on luggage recently. Can you even do it? I hate the idea of leaving my rack in an unattended bag. I lost some climbing gear years ago while flying out to Joshua Tree.
Any thoughts? Thanks Chris

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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Sep 18, 2013
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage
Damnboys wrote:
Hi all, has anyone flown with a rack as carry-on luggage recently. Can you even do it? I hate the idea of leaving my rack in an unattended bag. I lost some climbing gear years ago while flying out to Joshua Tree. Any thoughts? Thanks Chris


I just did in the Tetons. They called over the manager of the screening area and he looked stressed at all the metal on the screen. As soon as he opened the bag he said, "oh, you are climbers," and packed it back up. One other time they gave us a hard time about the rope (in New Mexico), but that was an overly aggressive bag checker in my opinion. Every time we have made it on the plane with our stuff, no need to check it. Be prepared to be nice and explain yourself.

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By Cor
Sep 18, 2013
black nasty
@ Damnboys, Alicia is right. If you are concerned call the loacl airport you are flying out of. It does seem like each one is different.
(You know TSA has to have no protocol, because terrorists don't either...)
My knowledge is that if they know what climbing gear is, or looks like you are probably ok with it. Then when you go to an airport where people have no idea about climbing it is of issue because they have never seen a spreader or a wedge! ;)

@ Tim Jones. If it is small or medium size I would bring it. Larger (WC) units could be good for a specific flared crack but...

@ Guidebooks questions. I am sure they are all pretty good. Some will have just classic routes, and some will show all types. IF you are planning on ever returning to Yosemite again, maybe the book(s) that cover the whole valley are better.
Everyone climbes on these "classic" routes which take up 10%? of the valley climbs, but what about all the other classics that are only 3stars instead of 4stars?? They will probably be just as awesome, with hardly anyone on them! Soooo many great climbs where we will be!

C

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By Carol Kotchek
From Louisville, Colorado
Sep 18, 2013
Veedauwoo off width clinic
I just added a host climber photo album on the Facebook page.

facebook.com/InternationalClim...

Great photos and short bios. Check it out and like the page!!

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By David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Sep 18, 2013
Carol Kotchek wrote:
I just added a host climber photo album on the Facebook page. facebook.com/InternationalClim... Great photos and short bios. Check it out and like the page!!


Is that supposed to say 2012?

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By Carol Kotchek
From Louisville, Colorado
Sep 19, 2013
Veedauwoo off width clinic
Just looked at the album. It says 2013. There is an old album for 2012

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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Sep 20, 2013
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage
Two weeks away!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!

Release the excitement!

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By Cor
Sep 20, 2013
black nasty
What route is set to release your excitement on??

I am getting so psyched...after all this work and flooding here! sigh..

FLAG


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