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Anyone around for late season ADK ice (03/21)?

Original Post
RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

This may be the last weekend for it, so I'm looking for someone to climb with this Saturday (03/21).

From what I hear, things are thinning out, and places like Cascade Pass may be out, but there's still ice to climb on north facing slopes (NFOP,some Chapel Pond routes).

I have a rack and rope, or I'm willing to find a spot to TR if conditions dictate.

PM if interested.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

I have a sense that Loch Ness is another good late season spot, and will see fewer crowds than NFOP and CP.

RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

Not familiar with that spot. Are you around? I'm happy to discover a new locale if you're interested.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140
RDW wrote:Not familiar with that spot. Are you around? I'm happy to discover a new locale if you're interested.
Rolf, it's across from Hurricane. Fairly certain it's in the Mellor guide book.

I'd climb with you, but unfortunately I can only climb Friday. I expect to be in the Chapel Pond area as the thaw and refreeze might have healed some routes. I'm not a big fan of climbing staircases.

Hope you had a good season. I can say mine was pretty damn great, but I'm looking forward to moving on to rock. Just tired of drying my gear out.
J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Also, did you ever get those photos I sent you? I usually delete them off dropbox after a while.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
RDW wrote:Not familiar with that spot. Are you around? I'm happy to discover a new locale if you're interested.
Page 73 in Blue Lines book.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Gunkiemike wrote:I have a sense that Loch Ness is another good late season spot, and will see fewer crowds than NFOP and CP.
You don't wanna go there. It's an uphill bushwhack. Hard to find if there's no tracks in the snow. The rest of the climbs in that area are unreliable and are probably out.
J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Bill Kirby, you know how to talk sexy to a guy. Basically what you are saying is no one else will be there and it won't be chopped up? It might even be an adventure to find? Sounds like climbing in the Adirondacks once you leave the roadside. Let's do it.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

I've climbed at Loch Ness several times in all sorts of condition. When the ice is thin, there's plenty of TR'd mixed stuff to keep even a picky old fart like me happy. When it's fat, there's a few very high quality single pitch lines. I won't have time tonight, but tomorrow evening I will post beta regarding the approach.

The left section of the wall tends to heal up pretty well, so I've not seen it get stepped out too badly.

RDW I don't climb ice anymore otherwise I'd be happy to climb with you.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

Confirmed in Blue Lines that Lock Ness parking and access is on 9N between poles 121 and 122. From memory I recall crossing the small stream immediately along the road, then heading right (downstream) for a little bit (maybe 300 feet), then heading uphill/left and following that general (East?) bearing up into the notch. The woods are relatively open here so navigation is easy. Most of it is uphill and takes about 15 minutes.

At the bottom near the road, if you continue heading downstream (but just above the left side of the stream) you will encounter some shorter ice routes that would be good for beginners. Even further in this direction is a long gully/drainage with some very easy ice and a fun maybe WI3 top out. There's also a decent rock band of 60-100 feet for future exploration/development. Not sure how deep the snow is right now, this could be some work if breaking trail.

There's a new ADK ice guide (not sure when it's going to be out) that will include these lower routes. Don Mellor is working on it. :)

RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

Thanks for all the info everyone! I'll definitely have to check out Loch ness - if not this weekend, then some time in the future.

That said, I'm still without someone to climb with, so if you or anyone you know is interested in getting in one last day, let me know.

Cheers!

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Guys.. Three Flows is in good shape. No crowds there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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