Any time when SS Quicklinks are a bad idea for anchors?
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Every once in a while I come across routes where the anchors only have bolts with hangers. And they aren't the rope-safe Metolius Rap Hangers or anything similar -- just regular hangers. In other words, it looks like somebody stole the quicklinks or whatever hardware had previously been put there. |
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The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel. |
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I can't think of any instance where adding quicklinks to the anchors would be unacceptable. You should generally carry quicklinks to replace missing/worn hardware on the anchors and grab a 9/16" wrench while you're at to tighten loose bolts. Stainless steel quicklinks aren't necessary, zinc-plated are fine as they are significantly cheaper. You can pick up 3 packs at Harbor Freight for about $4. |
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Jim Titt wrote:The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel.What he said^ Also, without knowing 100% sure what the hanger/bolt material is, how can you be sure whether to use SS or plated: never never mix plated and SS. Better to leave biners. |
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Use plated and you're fine. Worst case scenario, the link becomes the sacrificial anode. Thanks for pitching in! |
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Jim Titt wrote:The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel. Joey S. wrote:I can't think of any instance where adding quicklinks to the anchors would be unacceptable. ... Stainless steel quicklinks aren't necessary, zinc-plated are fine as they are significantly cheaper. Muscrat wrote:without knowing 100% sure what the hanger/bolt material is, how can you be sure whether to use SS or plated: never never mix plated and SS. Better to leave biners. evan h wrote:Use plated and you're fine. Worst case scenario, the link becomes the sacrificial anode. Thanks for pitching in!OK, this is the type of discussion I was seeking. Thank you. So, are the ones I linked to "plated"? Essentially my question is, what hardware should I be using when? Or as Muscrat said, is it better to just leave biners? |
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Three things to consider: |
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Thanks, Mike. That's very helpful. |
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michaelp wrote:is it better to just leave biners?I would say no, its not better to leave biners. 1) Steel will hold up much longer, 2) The next person may get up there and just take them because its easy and they may think its booty. |
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Leaving biners should be an easy solution, but as Mike points out, some people don't get it and just steal them. They tend to stick around on harder routes, but no promises there either. |
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Make sure you use two on each bolt so the rope doesn't get twisted to hell. For non stainless I like at least 3/8", preferably 1/2" (especially the bottom ones). For non highly corrosive situations I personally think non stainless quicklinks are alright if at least 3/8", though not preferred, as they are easily inspected and replaced. |