Mountain Project Logo

Any time when SS Quicklinks are a bad idea for anchors?

Original Post
Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71

Every once in a while I come across routes where the anchors only have bolts with hangers. And they aren't the rope-safe Metolius Rap Hangers or anything similar -- just regular hangers. In other words, it looks like somebody stole the quicklinks or whatever hardware had previously been put there.

Is there any circumstance when placing stainless steel quicklinks (such as the one sold at the link below) and leaving them for future climbers would not be acceptable?

backcountry.com/trango-quic…

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel.

Joey S. · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30

I can't think of any instance where adding quicklinks to the anchors would be unacceptable. You should generally carry quicklinks to replace missing/worn hardware on the anchors and grab a 9/16" wrench while you're at to tighten loose bolts. Stainless steel quicklinks aren't necessary, zinc-plated are fine as they are significantly cheaper. You can pick up 3 packs at Harbor Freight for about $4.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Jim Titt wrote:The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel.
What he said^
Also, without knowing 100% sure what the hanger/bolt material is, how can you be sure whether to use SS or plated: never never mix plated and SS.
Better to leave biners.
evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

Use plated and you're fine. Worst case scenario, the link becomes the sacrificial anode. Thanks for pitching in!

Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71
Jim Titt wrote:The quicklinks you linked to are not stainless steel.
Joey S. wrote:I can't think of any instance where adding quicklinks to the anchors would be unacceptable. ... Stainless steel quicklinks aren't necessary, zinc-plated are fine as they are significantly cheaper.
Muscrat wrote:without knowing 100% sure what the hanger/bolt material is, how can you be sure whether to use SS or plated: never never mix plated and SS. Better to leave biners.
evan h wrote:Use plated and you're fine. Worst case scenario, the link becomes the sacrificial anode. Thanks for pitching in!
OK, this is the type of discussion I was seeking. Thank you.

So, are the ones I linked to "plated"?

Essentially my question is, what hardware should I be using when? Or as Muscrat said, is it better to just leave biners?
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

Three things to consider:
1) Galvanic corrosion. If you put stainless steel on a platted steel hanger there is a chance of galvanic corrosion. In dry climates that are likely to have platted steel hangers this is likely a non-factor due to a lack of the rest of the parts of the galvanic cell. In wetter climates, particularly around salt water, the hanger could be SS already but if its platted steel maybe a minor concern.
2) There could be no rap rings or quick links on purpose. In the case of popular and easy routes it could be to avoid people top roping through the anchor forcing you to top rope through your own gear. For multipitch climbs it could be to force you to walk off to avoid rapping above climbers due to rock fall or just aggravation of getting ropes dropped on the climbers.
3) Eye sore. SS is very shiny and can be visible from a long distance. Some non-climbing user groups complain about this. The easy fix is to spray paint the quick links.

I would say in most cases that I can think of the community would welcome the added quick links but there are a few situations when they wouldn't.

Finally as Jim Titt said, make sure the steel is actually stainless steel and not just platted steel. Platted steel can be advertised as corrosion resistant (which it technically is) and in my experience SS will almost always explicitly be advertised as stainless.

Mike P · · Saint Louis · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 71

Thanks, Mike. That's very helpful.

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
michaelp wrote:is it better to just leave biners?
I would say no, its not better to leave biners. 1) Steel will hold up much longer, 2) The next person may get up there and just take them because its easy and they may think its booty.
evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

Leaving biners should be an easy solution, but as Mike points out, some people don't get it and just steal them. They tend to stick around on harder routes, but no promises there either.

Galvanic corrosion is the reason I say go with plated. If your hanger is plated, no issue. If the hanger is SS, the link may eventually corrode, but it's easy to replace. If you put a SS link on a plated hanger, you risk the hanger becoming the sacrificial anode, and on a sleeve bolt, these are not nearly as easy to replace.

I can't think of any reason why the equipper would not provide some sort of either ring or quicklink at an anchor. Sure, I guess it dissuades people from TRing through the anchor, but then what? Who the hell wants to rap, much less lower, on a standard hanger?

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Make sure you use two on each bolt so the rope doesn't get twisted to hell. For non stainless I like at least 3/8", preferably 1/2" (especially the bottom ones). For non highly corrosive situations I personally think non stainless quicklinks are alright if at least 3/8", though not preferred, as they are easily inspected and replaced.

For sport routes and other single pitch routes you might want to think about using ramshorns.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Any time when SS Quicklinks are a bad idea for…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.