Any Major Dude 5.11+ PG13
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Javier L on Mar 15, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Any Major Dude
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Description Sustained, steep, and crimpy climbing takes you past 3 bolts to a roof. Traverse right under the roof and clip into the 4th bolt before you fire up the roof crux. Mantle up and climb to the chains. There is one more bolt to protect you but you won't need it on the dusty 5.3 moves to the top.
Location Starts on the right side of the orange wall under the rusty pitons. Left of Honey Pot.
Protection Bolted sometime in late 2011 or early 2012. 5 bolts + chained/ring anchors. No need for TRing this route anymore but if you do, watch out for the swing into the tree.
Well worn rock near the top of the route. Only pl...
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| Comments on Any Major Dude |
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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 14, 2011
| Just led it yesterday. My new favorite at Pilot. The pitons that give this route the alternate name of "Five Pins" seem fairly solid. Placed two cams in the horizontal under the roof to back up the final piton, which is the only one that has real big fall potential. Pulling the roof is a doozy of a crux. Great movement below, and climbing over rusty pitons gives Five Pins the kind of spice that is hard to come by at Pilot. |
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jan 11, 2012
| New bolted anchors at edge of rim, with chains for lowering. Five new bolts on face. First is quite low, and second is quite close, for no grounding hazard. Fourth bolt is left, instead of right, of the crux move, without the previous need for gear below it. However, it is still the same difficulty, with the same tree hazard on TR. See at www.ClimbPilotNC.us
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By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 9, 2013
| Fun route, but definitely not pg 13 with the bolts.
If you take a close look right of the crux bolt, you can see where a drilled mono pocket used to be (before it was filled-in with putty).
Someone might wanna take a look at the crux bolt. Might be a good place for a glue-in in the future because of the softness of the rock up higher on the pitch (see picture). |
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