Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Any bolts need replacing at Phantom, LL, or Sugar Loaf?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Jun 7, 2014
Any bolts that need replacing up on either Phantom Spires, Lovers Leap, or Sugar Loaf? NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
127 points
Jun 7, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Out In NV. Photo by D. Salazar
Last time I was on Penny Candy (about 4 years ago) I remember the anchor being pretty burnt. From the comments on the route page sounds like they could still use some work.

The problem with the anchor is that it is in the flat on top of the wall.
The Farley
Joined Jan 25, 2013
56 points
Jun 7, 2014
These are probably lower priority compared to anchor bolts and rap stations, but...

Off the top of my head The Last Lockup on the lower spire has some old bolts on the top section that could stand to be replaced. Good climb by the way. I think the bolts on Penny Candy are star drives and could be upgraded.

If you're upgrading any bolts around Tahoe, THANK YOU!

Mike McL
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Joined Dec 12, 2007
1,288 points
Jun 9, 2014
Cool I'll check those both out, and see what will benefit the most from the 5 bolts and 4 hangers I have around. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
127 points
Jun 9, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day at Smug's
The area on top of Upper Spire, where Ginger bread ends, there are two sets of double anchors without rap rings (on pair has a single quicklink). They are on the horizontal ledge portion and not on a vertical face. The bolts are ok, but the could use rings. Unless they were intentionally left off because there is more above the ledge on the upper spire? Or there is another decent option? Unless I am missing something, you have to either use one ring or leave a biner on the ringless bolt, or thread the rope through the hangers of the other set of anchors (this is what I did and it sucked). Next time I'm up there I'd certainly be willing to leave a couple pairs of quicklinks on one set of the bolts. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
355 points
Jun 10, 2014
Sugarloaf is pretty well squared away, there are a few bolts here and there but they are on routes rarely, if ever climbed. I've pretty much got that place buttoned up.

Phantom has some, especially on lower spire, but the majority is just stuff that's getting worn out. I have a list here somewhere of stuff I know about.

csproul, you're missing something. The rappel anchor is on the face just over the edge above a nice ledge just above the route Harrison Direct on the West side of the Upper Spire. It is equipped with rings.

The leap has quite a few bolts that need replacing but most if not all require some sort of PITA to get too. I have a list for bolts that need replaced for there too somewhere.

If you have the time and desire to replace bolts, I'll keep you supplied with the best stainless equipment available. I do a tone of replacement work myself but don't always have the time or motivation to get to everything on my list. I could use some help from time to time as well.
From Vacaville Ca.
Joined Sep 1, 2005
2,808 points

Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!