Delicate face climbing past the first 3 bolts then the climbing gets a bit easier but the bolts spread out a bit.
The crux is down low on the climb. I had to zig-zag quite a bit down low to find the holds to make it work out to be 5.10. Going directly from bolt to bolt is much harder than 5.10, but being patient and finding the holds unlocks the sequence.
There is quite a run from the 3rd bolt up to the 4th bolt that may give you an "anxiety attack", but keep your cool and trust that the climbing gets easier after bolt 3.
Located above Bearclaw and assault and Battery. Climb up 3rd class slabs to the black streaked wall above. Look for the bolts to the right of the black streak.
5 draws for the climb. Anchors with chains up top.
May 15, 2010
This is a fun route - no easy cruise up. Slow and steady through the moves. Great climb.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 25, 2012
Led this last Sunday and I thought it was stiff for the grade, but then I may not have "unlocked" the correct sequences, which is really the key on this one. Very sequential to be sure! I want too far left at the top bolt and had to make a super delicate traverse back to the right which for me was the crux, but then I messed up the sequence and made it unnecessarily harder. Pretty much hard all the way to the top as far as I'm concerned.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The first two bolts on the climb need to be replaced. 1/4" of the sleeve and bolt are exposed at the 1st bolt where rock has broken away and both the first and second bolt spin (old SMC hangers). All the other bolts have been updated. This route is not R or PG in any way.