Antlers on a Sunday  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Alexander Nees on Dec 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tanya turning the roof on Antlers on a Sunday.

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Description 

Scramble up 5 feet past a tree to reach a good finger crack. Make a tough transition into an offwidth pod (5.10), then easy climbing leads to the obvious 5' roof. Turn the roof on the left side using a good crack and some cool features on the left wall (5.10 crux), then easy ground leads you to a ledge at 50 feet.

Build an anchor to belay from in the acute corner just below the big ledge. Rope drag is kind of unavoidable if you try to TR it with a belay at the bottom....belay from the top instead. The last person to do the climb will need to traverse right to reach the bolted anchor on People are Poodles Too. and then rappel (3rd Class, but very exposed).

This is a pretty good climb! It is definitely better than Poodles next door, which seems to get much more traffic. The cracks and gear are good, the rock is solid, the bottom has some neat jamming, and the crux roof is really cool. It has very Yosemite-esque climbing. The anchor situation is a bit of a bummer. A community-minded individual could do a service by adding an anchor to this one.

Location 

This route is ~30 feet left of People are Poodles Too, behind some trees. There is a sizable tree about 3 feet up the cliff that you sort of climb through to reach the start of the crack. The big roof that you turn on the left side should be obvious ~30 feet above you.

Protection 

A single set of cams will get you up it. Having doubles of purple, green, and red C4s wouldn't hurt. 1 #4 is nice to have; I didn't use a #3.