Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bin, The 
Blotto AKA Axis 
Dirty Little Secret 
English Breakfast Crack 
Entrance Exam 
Leanie Meanie 
New Dimensions 
Short Circuit 
Short Circuit Chimney 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974
Season: All year around
Page Views: 1,967
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The lower corner on Anticipation.
  • 2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.

    Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).

    Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.


    This is the leftmost right facing corner at the arch. It is about 100 or so yards to the left of midterm. Rappel the route, or do a dirty pitch to the top and descend.


    Double up to 3'' + some small nuts. Cam number 4 is useful at the belay.

    Comments on Anticipation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Feb 15, 2012

    Great pitch for sure but to say it is easily the best??
    Maybe say in your opinion. I like Leanie Meanie better. Both great pitches though.

    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Sep 6, 2012

    there already two of us who likes Leanie Meanie better

    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Nov 15, 2013

    I've done the third pitch! Yup, it's loose and in the mid-5.10 range.