Anti-Jello Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | FFA-P1: Yaniro, Murley (1974) FFA-P3&4: Burrill, Leversee (1976) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Jul 23, 2006 |
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Diana leading the 5.9+ tips crack.
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Description P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.
P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.
P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.
P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.
Location Approach same as Tree Route
Protection Standard rack with extra TCUs & small Stoppers.
Diana follows the upper half of the third pitch 5....
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Chuck Brainard on 2nd pitch
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Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
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Top of 3rd pitch of Anti-Jello
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At end of thin crack on 2nd pitch of Anti-Jello Cr...
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Romain Wacziarg, in the business on P2 of Anti-Jel...
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Romain Wacziarg climbs through the finger-tips lay...
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Climbers on the second pitch.
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| Comments on Anti-Jello Crack |
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006
| The second pitch is the single best pitch I've done for the grade! And one of my favorites anywhere.
A great variation is to climb P2 until the splitter finger crack ends, then follow an obvious 3-inch crack up and right to the second belay of Tree Route. Follow Tree Route to the top.
THANKS FOR THE CORRECTION! (see below) |
By Isaac T.
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 23, 2008
| The 3 inch crack you mentioned for the P2 variation is more of a finger crack (at the beginning) and then widens to big fists. Also with a 70 meter rope you can belay from the ground and make it to the belay anchor at the top of the 5.9 splitter crack. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| A nice route! The second pitch is classic, and the crux isn't quite as hard as it appears from below. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 18, 2009
| What are the bolts like at the bolted belays? Old buttonheads or what?
Thanks.
EDIT: Thanks Bryan. |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jul 19, 2010
| The bolts are all bomber. |
By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Aug 29, 2010
| Pitch 2 is beautiful. Gradually gets harder all the way to the end of the pitch. Be sure to bring some real small stuff.
The variation to the right after pitch 2 is aesthetic but disappointingly easy compared to pitch 2. Stick with the 10a bit on the left. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| Pitches two and three are so good. Pitch two is slippery feet along a locker finger crack that eventually disappears. My partner came up and asked if that was the crux. No, I said, that'd be the next pitch. The third pitch crux is thin, and I found myself pulling an exhilarating tips lieback to get through. This is stout, technical climbing for the grade; I haven't worked this hard for 10a in a long time! I couldn't recommend this climb more, especially for the ease of approach compared to the Needles proper. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 30, 2011
| To add to what Bryan said, the bolts atop P2 are 3/8" Rawls with the original (old school) hangers attached. You can see at least two chopped 1/4" bolts nearby. Unfortunately, the three anchor bolts atop P2 are spread out awkwardly and positioned too low to take advantage of a large knob to stand on. The resulting hanging belay is quite uncomfortable.
The bolts atop P3 were replaced by the ASCA and are situated well. |
By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Oct 12, 2012
| climbed this a few weeks ago. the quality of this route cannot be overstated. pitch two is sustained and strenuous; nothing but tips for my big fingers. pitch three has two distinct sections: the first half is fun/easy to a generous rest spot right before the classic dihedral shown in the photos. the dihedral is ridiculously fun, with a nice opening for your fingers at about 2/3 through. |
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