Anti-Ego Crack 5.6
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Steve Miller, Jerry Anderson, 10/72. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is up and right of "Sloth Wall". It climbs a short crack with a tree at the base.
Climb the crack then move up and left to the tree on "Sloth Wall" or wander up to the top, directly.
Protection Pro to 3.5".
| Comments on Anti-Ego Crack |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.7
| This is a great offwidth, and I usually don't like offwidths! Used a #4 BD and maybe a 4.5 at the start. Sustained climbing at grade for 50' or so, then easy flake all the way to the top. I ran it to the Manzanita (190') then rapped to the tree on Sloth Wall, then rapped to the gully. |
By Matthew Mosher
Feb 20, 2010
rating: 5.7
| Face moves can get you through the short offwidth. Mainly fist and hand jams. Slightly dirty if you follow the corner to the manzanita with rap slings. |
By Adam McFarren
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 13, 2010
| Lead first time in rock shoes, followed second time in approach shoes which made the foot jams easier and feel like a hands crack. Lower-angle route and hand stacks worked well for me, 1 #4 and two #3 protected it easily. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 15, 2010
rating: 5.6
| I would have given this 3 stars if the wide crack ran longer! That crack was a good place to practice leapfrogging pro (though I only had one cam to move!). Steep, but very secure jams. |
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