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Anthrax 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Mike Lohre.

Description 

The right hand bolted route. This is about as Schmidtenesque as they get. Bolt a contrived line right next to an obvious and beautiful natural line. Oh well... If you climb right on the bolts at the bottom using thin crimps, as Schmidt intended, the grade is 12c. If you climb the nice arete to the right and stretch out to clip the bolts the whole thing will feel about .11a-ish. This last way of climbing it is really enjoyable and I would give that 3 stars.

Location 

North end.

Protection 

Bolts to chain anchor.


Photos of Anthrax Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start on the arete and follow the bolts when they ...
BETA PHOTO: Start on the arete and follow the bolts when they ...

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By Tradoholic
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Classic route if you use the arete. Bolts are easily clipped from there. 5.11a that way. Didn't even try the face directly.
By Tradoholic
Jun 11, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Known as "Anthrax" in the Ryan Hansen guide book.
By computerskillclimbing.
Sep 27, 2010

The face (direct) line felt like .12a.
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This thing, if you make full use of the arete (and you should to avoid DL-style contrivedness), is upper-10's at best. If you compare it to the litany (DMB, Tarantula, Gargantua, etc.) of routes that are given 5.10b at the Old Sandstone area of Devil's Lake, and you'll almost certainly come to the conclusion that this is no harder than them (but maybe those deserve 5.10c?).

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