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 ADVANCED
The Black Pearl
Select Route:
Anteater 
Anteater Direct 
Mr. Gibbs 
Pearl, The 

Anteater 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Bob Horan?
Page Views: 2,143
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Jun 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The Pearl into the red line is Anteater....

Description 

Starts as The Pearl, but when you get to the move over on the slab, stay on the arete and work your way up to a sloping edge/crimp, match, and go for the nose. Mantle over. Committing moves near the end and that nose is slippery.


Location 

The right arete of the overhanging face of The Black Pearl.


Protection 

Pads.



Photos of Anteater Slideshow Add Photo
On a nice winter day, a more recent photo of Anteater Block in forefront with Cross Block in back drop.
On a nice winter day, a more recent photo of Antea...
Comments on Anteater Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2013
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 22, 2009

Bob Horan's Bouldering Colorado book gives this route a V10... It is V9 at the hardest, maybe even V8 or V7, but regardless, it is one of the best lines in the park.... Send it!!!

Luke, go do it, this one is sick for sure! It adds some really cool moves to an already cool problem....

I can also see why it's called Anteater.... I almost inhaled an ant while sending this route....

By Luke Childers
Jun 24, 2009

Nice darth,
Great send!!! I didn't get to finish the arete on the day that I was there working "The Pearl", but I cleaned the upper section as much as I could, like crazy in fact!!! The middle two or three moves looked like they were going to be climb clean or with the use of a tall brush which I did not have. Just playing with the line it seemed that its difficulty could fall in the V9-ish range for sure.

Not to take away from Bob Horan, but I had to do so much cleaning on the top section I find it hard to believe that he really had the F.A. on this one. And as far as I'm concerned or know... no one but yourself has put the full arete together. So, for F.A. I must put my vote on you bro. Not sure if you care to change that claim, but that is what I think and your work should reflect that. It my possible be the proudest, hardest, and sweetest lines at The Sisters now and you should be proud of that send and at least contest the F.A. man... because that thing was so dirty on top it took me about two hours to clean the finish. Moreover, that was all you my man!!!

The other lines Bob mentions in his book that are located in the as area (just to the EAST or LEFT) by about 10-20ft I don't believe to have really been climbed yet. I checked them out and they are still supper dirty as well (LIKE NEVER TOUCHED DIRTY). A safe send would in my mind require much more care in the cleaning effort as would an accurate assessment of there difficulty. So as far as I am concerned those line are also open for F.A. ascents.

Point. Do what you are going to do, but I still believe you got the F.A. on the arete and it's deserving of a name of your choosing and your name in the F.A. slot.

Sorry for the long statement on this matter, but credit must be given where credit is due. Nice work on the arete and I,m definitely going to try to send, but I must still get "The Pearl" which I think I can do very quickly now that I have the beta down and my hands are healed from seven days of climbing. So obviously the next time I'm in the area the arete will get my full attention. Rock on man. Hope we can link up to climb soon.

Also, if you would like to send it again for a video I am slowly putting together for the area let me know. I would love to video your sending that plum line man. Let me know.

Luke Childers

By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2009

Good job on the sit down problem, Black Pearl. The Anteater, I sent in early 1990s and was a little gritty, hence the rating, but still one of my favorite arete, face problems, I called the block the Anteater because from a certain angle the beak in the block looked like just that. I also sent some nice highballs (hb) on the block with the cross feature in it, hence I gave it the name, Cross Block, see Bouldering Colorado. How about the ratings of hard, way hard, or no f-ing way, or good, way good, etc. Problems that I had sent years ago, I have returned to and found them to be even chossier from lack of tracking over the years, for example I went up Button Rock the other day and a problem I had sent in late eighties, one I had not returned to since then, had a full grow tree obscuring it and the face had chossed over with lichen, etc. (See album Before and after),

By Luke Childers
Jun 24, 2009

Hey Bob,
Like I said, no offense meant about who may have the 1st ascent of this fantastic line, or the 3 other lines on the block you call "The Cross." If you say you put it away no problem. I can understand why the top of "Anteater" would have been so dirty if it had not seen a single repeat since the early 90's. I have been climbing the Sisters since about 1999 and this was one of the least visited area's for me. I can assure you that I am not a jealous mind and I'm sure many of my claimed F.A.'s in this area have been done before as well. But that is history for you!?! Again, no offense was intended.

Since you have been so active in this area I would love it if you would look over some of the info posted and help give a more historical face to this area of the Sisters. I have asked Tom Hanson for some info but I have not heard from him yet.

By the way... sending "Anteater" in the early 1990s...nice work.

Luke Childers

By Luke Childers
Jun 29, 2009

Worked this line without using the nice face crimp on "The Pearl" and really tried to stay right on the arete and it's way hard. If done this way I have every belief that is difficultly will fall in the V10 range. Not sure I can do it but all the moves are there. It's going to come down to just 2-3 moves for me but it will go this way for sure. What a classic block man. I just love this area!!

By Robert Balun
Aug 29, 2009

Does the Anteater Arete use the good crimp on the Pearl? If so, has just the arete gone yet?

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 1, 2009

When I climbed 'Anteater', I used the good crimp on the Pearl, however, you don't actually pull onto the slab, your body stays under the arete even if you use the crimp. So, as far as I'm concerned it's part of the line, excluding it would make the problem an eliminate and this isn't Morrison.... You still have a really long reach after the crimp to gain the higher holds on the arete, and I even ended up going around the nose and mantling left of the nose.

By Luke Childers
Sep 7, 2009

I agree, although the line is much harder not using the good crimp used on the "Pearl". My choice in not using is more like an eliminate and in some cases the line feels less natural. Truly, however, anyway you slice it, it's a great chunk of stone that is difficult almost any line you chose to climb up the hog!!

By David Powell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2009

I am not sure if it has been done yet; however, I would like to say that I climbed the Anteater arete w/o using the good crimp that is used after the two finger crimp pocket when climbing the Pearl. I felt like making the move to that crimp was a clear decision to gain the slab, but at the same time climbing just the arete and never going any further on the slab than that pocket crimp is an eliminate. The line using only the overhung face and the arete didn't climb any less natural and was fairly interesting in that you basically repeat the same moves up the arete as are done just before exiting for the Pearl.

By Luke Childers
Oct 19, 2009

Hey David,
Nice send on your send of Anteater Direct!! As I understand it. Bob Horan FA'ed this version of the arete back in the mid 1990s. But I am not sure but you may be only one of a few that have done so successfully!!! Again, nice work.

By David Powell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2009

Thanks. This line is great. I don't know much about Mr. Horan, but a climb of this difficulty with the shoe technology back then would have been more than impressive. I would assume that this line would only get repeated more if its location were better.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Sep 9, 2013

So...with the crimp V8 or 9, without V10? Seems harder than V10 without it, but I may be just getting old! Easily my favorite line in the park!