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 ADVANCED
Gorilla Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Crack, Left T,TR 
Ant Crack, Right T 
Gorilla Chimney T 
Ko-Ko Box T 

Ant Crack, Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on May 6, 2013

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Description 

The punchline to the route name is only an ant could climb the "crack" for most of this line... though it opens up and takes fingers or toes at the very end. The crux moves are face and use smearing. Start by attaining a ledge low on the face. Walk it left (past Ant Crack, Right) to the next fracture. Work up the crack line, using things on the face, resting at the occasional tiny Phantom Spires Patented Knob. When the crack opens enough to take finger tips near the finish, the going gets easy.


Location 

Facing south on Gorilla Rock, right of Ko-Ko Box. Both Ant Cracks start with the same move, then split left or right at the first ledge.


Protection 

Normally toproped after leading Ko-Ko Box to the shared anchors on top of Gorilla Rock. I rated it 5.8 R as a trad lead, since there is no pro until two thirds of the way up; then micro nuts and small cams protect well to the top.



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