|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Larry Coats, Ross Hardwick, Dugald Bremner (late 70's)|
|Season: ||Spring thru Fall|
|Page Views: ||960|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Answered Prayers is a really cool route, and a good one to get used to placing small gear at a moderate grade. After scrambling up to the "head wall", get in some gear and then pull through the bulging wall above. A lack of footholds makes this an interesting proposition. Once above the bulge, you're in a nice dihedral. Stem and jam your way to the top. The upper dihedral is a little sparse on gear, so make sure you get a couple good pieces in the clean crack before you launch into the last half of the dihedral. Also, work all the options, and look out to the left arete for good holds.
This route is just right of Sparky and the Firedog. It starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the right route that goes through the bulging wall.
This pitch has a lot of small gear in between beefier placements. Small/ medium wires and small cams a must. Doubles from #.3 through #2 Camalot.
|Comments on Answered Prayers
|By Larry Coats|
Sep 1, 2007
First ascent: Larry Coats, Ross Hardwick, Dugald Bremner (late 70's)
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
I thought I was doing a good job getting off the couch but this route spanked me hard mentally. A fairly committing route all around I'd say, and not your typical Overlook straight up splitter. Quality climbing though.
|By Karl K|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 1, 2011
My first 5.9 lead (back in the day). I was so freaked out at the little crux bulge that I left all my nuts hanging from the one I placed (common biner). Had to do the upper stem section - all thin - with just a couple of TCUs.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013
Yah probably not a good intro to 5.9 lead climbing.