Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Working Wives S,TR 

Another Wack and Dangle Job 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA:Pat Purcell FFA:Matt McCormick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,360
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matt McCormick on Another Wack and Dangle Job

Description 

This amazing route lies in the massive left arching corner on the left end of the King Wall. Pat Purcell aided the route to the existing anchor all the while intending for it to be a full length route. The potential to extend this free climb out the rest of the arch is definitely there!

Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed.

Stem up the initial corner into increasingly steep and pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. This route is truly unique for the Daks and should be destined to become a free classic at the crag!

Location 

Starts by scrambling up the slabby boulder and then back right across the ledge to the base of the massive left arching corner. 60' right of Wall Ruler.

Protection 

small to medium nuts and cams. The route is totally G rated!


Comments on Another Wack and Dangle Job Add Comment
Show which comments
By jason conway
Jul 6, 2010

Super Route. If Kingdom Come is 4 stars this should get 10! I only did the first pitch of KC though.