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Another Roadside Distraction 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,791
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on May 1, 2003
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Steve Arsenault begins the laybacks. It stays hard...

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Description 

A.R.D. is the right facing corner just left of Astro Lad. This route begins with some funky moves and then veers left to avoid a short offwidth crack. A large cam, anything from a #4 friend to a #5 camalot, protects the start. The rock on the first half of the route is definitely a little suspect, but the moves are interesting. At mid-height, cut back right to gain the beautiful finger crack. I'd recommend placing a good piece (#2.5 Fr.?) with a long sling before going right. Load up the thin crack with pro and launch into a fun layback with solid finger locks. A couple small footholds provide relief for placing gear during the layback.

The crux is giving up the layback and hoisting onto the sloping ledge just before the anchor. The last half of the route is excellent!


Protection 

2 sets cams, something big for the start, #2 yellow TCU's fit the crux lieback perfectly, so three of those come in handy. A couple long slings are helpful, depending on where your gear ends up.



Photos of Another Roadside Distraction Slideshow Add Photo
Guillaume Dargaud on Another Roadside Distraction.
Guillaume Dargaud on Another Roadside Distraction.
Brian Delaney on Another Roadside Distraction while unknown French climbers top out on Astro Lad. The second is being belayed from the ground while the leader films.
Brian Delaney on Another Roadside Distraction whil...
Steve Arsenault beginning the laybacks as bored spectators ignore him.
Steve Arsenault beginning the laybacks as bored sp...
Brian Delaney resting at the top of the laybacks prior to the last hard move getting onto the ledge.
Brian Delaney resting at the top of the laybacks p...
Trad cherry popper
Trad cherry popper
Comments on Another Roadside Distraction Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Hickok
Aug 23, 2003

This description calls for a very liberal use of gear. The route can be led with much less than 1 set of cams. Look at the route yourself and make the call, but you could definitely lighten your load...

By Matt Pickren
Mar 7, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I agree, I did this route with a think 5 cams. Idealy I would like Red and Yellow aliens, .3, .4, .5, .75, 1 and 2 Camalots. I of each is plenty (depending how comfortable you are on .10b fingers). 2 sets of cams would be kinda heavy and annoying while laying the top section back. You can see the route great from the ground and decide what you need.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

a single set is fine, although a second finger sized piece may make someone happy up higher....great route.

By Chris Bartram
From: Littleton, NH
Oct 7, 2013

Excellent route, I didn't find any of the moves to be more difficult than 10a but the lieback was very pumpy