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Oct 7, 2012
Bomber or not?
anchor
anchor


Used something similar the other day while belaying a second. It only made me second guess myself while we were back on the ground after the rappel.

1. At the top of the pitch there were a redundant set of metal cables around a tree used as a rappel station. The cables are represented by two slings basket hitched around the tree in the right hand corner attached to two Quicklinks.

2. The left hand side of the picture is a cordelette basket hitched and tied off around the base of the tree.

3. There is one sling basket hitched from the quicklinks to a locking carabiner attached to below the knot of my master point on my cordelette.

So, bomber or not?
chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Joined Sep 18, 2011
18 points
Oct 7, 2012
The cordelette, by itself, would be an adequate anchor. The additional slings on the right side are unnecessary clutter. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
Oct 7, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
FrankPS wrote:
The cordelette, by itself, would be an adequate anchor. The additional slings on the right side are unnecessary clutter.


+100
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,504 points
Oct 7, 2012
What was the thought process here? Are you trying to back up the tree to... half the tree? Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 21, 2010
6 points
Oct 7, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
This reminds me of a time when i was super new to anchors and i backed up a BFT (big F*#$ing Tree) with a green c3...My partner still makes fun of me for that one ten years later rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Oct 7, 2012
Gelsa P2
kennoyce wrote:
+100


word.
AJWM
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 16, 2012
81 points
Oct 7, 2012
FrankPS wrote:
The cordelette, by itself, would be an adequate anchor. The additional slings on the right side are unnecessary clutter.


That was my initial thought, sometimes my mind plays tricks om me.
chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Joined Sep 18, 2011
18 points
Oct 7, 2012
Rrrrr
Sorry, it's just not battleship-bomber. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Oct 7, 2012
Why not just use the rope ? T.C.
From Whittier, NC
Joined Oct 24, 2010
1 points
Oct 7, 2012
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
Em Cos wrote:
What was the thought process here? Are you trying to back up the tree to... half the tree?


+1

You couldn't find another tree to use as a back up???? I mean come on. What if that tree rips out or breaks. Then what???
AnthonyM
Joined Mar 5, 2009
43 points
Oct 7, 2012
What's with all the clutter in your anchor? Just wrap the rope a time or two and tie it off. All that extra crap makes your anchor less safe by introducing more fail points. You need to find a mentor. Reginald McChufferton
Joined Sep 24, 2012
1 points
Oct 7, 2012
Perhaps I did forget the KISS principle. chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Joined Sep 18, 2011
18 points
Oct 7, 2012
North face of long's.
With a tree that large, your redundancy comes with a knot in the cordelette. The concern isn't that the tree will fail and that you will need to back up the tree (you have bigger concerns if that tree fails) - your concern is that your system shouldn't rely on a single strand. An elegant approach is to take a bight of your climbing rope around the tree and tie a BFK between the bight and the tails. The knot creates two independent ropes around your anchor and distributes your load evenly through the master point knot. Otherwise, do the same thing with a cordelette and call it good. BWIce
From Carlisle, PA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
30 points
Oct 7, 2012
Thanks everyone for the input.

Lessons Learned:
Keep it simple stupid.
The one cordelette that I tied off would have been sufficient.


My nerves got to the best of me and I just threw in some unnecessary things.
chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Joined Sep 18, 2011
18 points
Oct 7, 2012
K.I.S.S. is always a good thing, but more is usually better than less as well. michaeltarne
Joined Jan 2, 2011
124 points
Oct 7, 2012
Or, climb with twin/doubles and just do a bite with overhand on each rope separately, then clip them to the quicklinks. Two ropes, always redundant, and you never need to do 1/2 length raps. Makes climbing with a group of three way fast.

Once you use two ropes for multipitch trad, you won't go back.
T.C.
From Whittier, NC
Joined Oct 24, 2010
1 points
Oct 14, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
If you do use just cordalette make sure it is tied in such a way so if one strand fails (like the one around the tree) you don't have total anchor failure.

Just a thought: when I have a bft throw an overhand on a bight and girth hitch the tree

With the leg from the girth hitch tie a figure 8 follow through around tree again.

Tie master point. Bam easy, redundant anchor.
Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
48 points
Oct 14, 2012
At the BRC
I like to carry a few acorns on Grade III+ climbs, so I can plant them for anchors. Sometimes takes a while, but safety first! Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
200 points


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