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Another HYP/hangboard question
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By slim
Administrator
Jan 27, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

JLP wrote:
SCC - nobody but slim mentioned not using a hangboard.


Not sure what this means(?)


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Jan 27, 2012

slim wrote:
i have noticed that the gym climbing seems to be really working well for you - you seem to have bumped it up a notch or 2 this last couple years. do you think it is from an increase in strengtho, or technique, or both, etc? for the indoor climbing - do you have any tips for improvement? i seem to have hit a wall for a long time in that area. where are you climbing mostly outside these days?

I switched gym (from R&J to movement), and stopped getting my fingers jacked up all the time from tweaky route setting. A few things I've noticed: I improved a lot in pinch and sloper holds (the surprising thing is that seemed to really help thumbs up jams (and tight ring locks) at IC, and I was doing better even though I hadn't been there in 3 years). It did take a while to get used to small crimps earlier in the spring and I changed my route preferences in the gym a bit to ramp back up. (Mike Molter seem to set an overhung pure crimp route every 2-3 months, although those end up being at least 13-, and there is always a 12(+) crimp route on more vertical terrain. If you talk to him, I bet he'll set one, and it'll be very deliberate but not tweaky, just don't expect the entire gym to be crimp routes.) I've also improved hand/eye coordination on more dynamic moves (hitting holds just right instead of overshooting), optimizing arc of body swing as well as some strength gain. Watching the strong climbers in the gym, I experimented with tuning my overall technique/efficiency a bit (I recommend watching somebody with similar build, the whole climb like a girl thing is b.s. unless you are built like one). Of course, the overall fitness gain made red pointing routes outside a lot quicker. The willingness to work on gym routes that aren't well suited for me helped to.
With that said, I've noticed I really don't like hanging off (or move to) semi-decent holds with a lot of body weight (poor feet or overhung terrain). So I'm starting some HB sessions. It's possible this season, Movement won't offer as much in return (although I think I'll be safe until I can redpoint 14-).
I've not seen you climb much, so I can't offer much advise. From watching the coaching staff, I know Justin is very technical in his coaching while Jimmy is very much into strength training. I don't climb much outside in the winter, but you can get a sense what I'll be doing from my tick/todo list.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jan 27, 2012
Gunking

Slim- Thanks for the detailed response.


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By M LaViolette Jr.
From The Past
Mar 27, 2012
Wolverine on Predator (5.13b) Rumney.

I've recently just started some hangboard training and had some rookie questions. I started with the beginner guidelines on the rockprodigy article, seven grips 10 secs x 5 hangs per set. That was pretty easy the first week, three routines. I didn't think that it was a good idea to start adding weight/sets yet though so what I did for the second week was move down to a smaller grip for one of the reps per set for each of the grips. Now on the third week I've moved down to smaller grips for two out of the five reps.

So, is this a good strategy for someone just getting into the hangboard, or should I just start thinking about adding weight and doing all five reps on the larger grips that I started on?

Doing two reps on small grips and then back up to three reps on larger grips to complete a grip set causes me to fail on reps 2 and 5 on some grips. Is it better to keep plugging away at that or is it more important as a beginner to make sure I successfully complete the 10x5?

Last, and along the same lines, when it does come time to start adding weight/sets is it possible to achieve the same effect as adding weight onto a (relatively) large grip by just dropping down onto a smaller grip of the same type without adding the weight, assuming that you are having to give near 100% in either circumstance to complete the target reps/sets or is the adding of weight necessary?

Hope those made sense, thanks for any advice.


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By Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2012
Duck face with Largo

M LaViolette Jr. wrote:
So, is this a good strategy for someone just getting into the hangboard, or should I just start thinking about adding weight and doing all five reps on the larger grips that I started on?


Most of your route ticks are 10a and under and you want to start hangboarding? What?


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By M LaViolette Jr.
From The Past
Mar 29, 2012
Wolverine on Predator (5.13b) Rumney.

Well I figured it couldn't hurt a few days a week when I get home from work and don't have the time to climb. Is that OK with you?


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 29, 2012

M LaViolette Jr. wrote:
Well I figured it couldn't hurt

It could hurt, a lot. At your level the stress on your tendons could easily overwhelm them.


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By JLP
From The Internet
Mar 29, 2012

Brendan N. (grayhghost) wrote:
It could hurt, a lot. At your level the stress on your tendons could easily overwhelm them.

He could get on a crimpy route at the gym and do the same - so what?

Seems reasonable to me. Start off easy, big holds, short sessions, favoring longer hangs (7 secs +) with no added weight, see how you feel a few days later and go from there. Don't make it such a science project at first, that will come with time.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Mar 29, 2012

We need to create a "Training FAQ".


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By koreo
From Denver, CO
Mar 30, 2012
sloping <br />

Mike Anderson wrote:
We need to create a "Training FAQ".


+1


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