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Mar 27, 2012
Wolverine on Predator (5.13b) Rumney.
I've recently just started some hangboard training and had some rookie questions. I started with the beginner guidelines on the rockprodigy article, seven grips 10 secs x 5 hangs per set. That was pretty easy the first week, three routines. I didn't think that it was a good idea to start adding weight/sets yet though so what I did for the second week was move down to a smaller grip for one of the reps per set for each of the grips. Now on the third week I've moved down to smaller grips for two out of the five reps.

So, is this a good strategy for someone just getting into the hangboard, or should I just start thinking about adding weight and doing all five reps on the larger grips that I started on?

Doing two reps on small grips and then back up to three reps on larger grips to complete a grip set causes me to fail on reps 2 and 5 on some grips. Is it better to keep plugging away at that or is it more important as a beginner to make sure I successfully complete the 10x5?

Last, and along the same lines, when it does come time to start adding weight/sets is it possible to achieve the same effect as adding weight onto a (relatively) large grip by just dropping down onto a smaller grip of the same type without adding the weight, assuming that you are having to give near 100% in either circumstance to complete the target reps/sets or is the adding of weight necessary?

Hope those made sense, thanks for any advice.
M LaViolette Jr.
From The Past
Joined Oct 20, 2011
399 points
Mar 29, 2012
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
M LaViolette Jr. wrote:
So, is this a good strategy for someone just getting into the hangboard, or should I just start thinking about adding weight and doing all five reps on the larger grips that I started on?


Most of your route ticks are 10a and under and you want to start hangboarding? What?
Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 5, 2007
2,506 points
Mar 29, 2012
Wolverine on Predator (5.13b) Rumney.
Well I figured it couldn't hurt a few days a week when I get home from work and don't have the time to climb. Is that OK with you? M LaViolette Jr.
From The Past
Joined Oct 20, 2011
399 points
Mar 29, 2012
M LaViolette Jr. wrote:
Well I figured it couldn't hurt

It could hurt, a lot. At your level the stress on your tendons could easily overwhelm them.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Mar 29, 2012
We need to create a "Training FAQ". Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,199 points
Mar 30, 2012
sloping
Mike Anderson wrote:
We need to create a "Training FAQ".


+1
koreo
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 24, 2009
90 points


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