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The route follows a system of cracks to the climber's left of the arete. Belay for 2nd pitch towards upper-middle of ascent.
Second pitch is short, with lower section covered in lichen.
NOTE: This two-pitch variation is different than what is listed elsewhere with regards to the belay stations. We used a 60 m rope to essentially span the two pitches listed in the popular Ogden guide book and then went all the way to the top. (see pictures below)
Descent is via walk-off down gully to south, then ledge traverse to the starting point.
One can get a nice view of this climb from the top of Utah Crack on Utah Wall which is one gully to the east.
Standard trad rack with some bigger cams.
The Terminator #6 Camalot at the top.
View from the top.
BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom of the climb (above and south...
BETA PHOTO: Upper 5.8 Wall (lower section) viewed from atop Ut...
BETA PHOTO: View of the upper portion of the Upper 5.8 Wall lo...
|Comments on Another Friend
Sep 28, 2009
Fun climb, needs some traffic on it to clean it up. A single #4 would make the wide crack on the first pitch comfy but the climbing isn't too hard.
Oct 8, 2009
Today we scrambled over to Utah Wall and rappelled off. More fun than scrambling down. Very scenic, fun route! Can use some big cams if you want. I used a Camalot #6 just for fun. Didn't use any smaller nuts.
From: huntsville, utah
Oct 13, 2009
This was my first trad climb. I followed both pitches. Matt carried all the gear. This is the life!
Sep 3, 2010
Am I the only one that likes this climb? Sure it has some lichen on it but for a moderate trad route in Ogden it's pretty darn fun. Probably time to replace the slings on top.
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 24, 2013
Very lichen covered. But that just means no one climbs it! I enjoyed it. Definitely get your adventure climbing face on before you climb this.