|Lizard Head Wall
Another Day At the Office starts on the same ledge as Blue Collar Crack and the many other routes that use it for access. It climbs sharp left up a blunt arete to a quasi chimney that quickly ends, but brings the climber to a steep arete.
Pitch #1: Climb to the arete. A hand crack deeper in the recess to the left goes easy to a big chickenhead and steepening slab requiring an athletic lunge past some fixed protection. Trend rightward and reach a blocky headwall where an undercling allows a traverse to the right to a two bolt belay. 5.11, 25m.
Pitch #2: Climb the awkward thin tight finger crack above the belay until it ends at King Lizard or continue past two bolts on delightful chickenheads to the top of the buttress, building your own belay. 5.10+, 20m.
Pitch #3: This pitch was climbed before the lower pitches of the climb, but sits and waits for you right above it. On the big scrub oak filled belay ledge just 10m above the chain anchors for Red Neck Slab, an east facing slanting crack sweeps up to the top of the main Lizard Head Wall. This may be climbed via OW wide hands from its base or can be approached directly via some steppy cracks and slab that eventually intersect with the difficult and exfoliating layback crack at its top. Walk 2m north on the cut swath of scrub oak "path" to begin. We chose the direct (not having multiple #3-#4 Camalots with us as may be required by the lower portion of the crack) and possibly easier variation to the upper layback crack and two-bolt belay ledge. A crack that works you! 5.10, 20m.
We climbed this traditionally, ground up, without pre-inspection and low down of Pitch #1 not entirely free (thermal and heavy load burn performing our chosen Line Of Work?). Consequently, we were surprised to see the King Lizard around the corner to the left. We also were unaware of the previous very bold ascent leaving no fixed gear of this route that had occurred in April.
Walk about 15m to the west and down the Assumption Of Risk spur and find a two-bolt belay. Two Rope Rappel.
We found no modern rappel anchors on top, so we installed a two-bolt belay/anchor at the top of Assumption Of Risk. Two rope rappel or find some intermediary tree rappel options to base of the Main Lizard Head Wall.
QDs, set of Camalots, extra #3-#4.5 sizes for pitch #3 and perhaps extra micro sizes for Pitch #2.
Set of Nuts.
Incidentally, Assumption Of Risk looks great, but could use its one old 1/4" bolt replaced and I doubt that it is still an "X", given the advances of modern gear.
Before the initial difficulties
BETA PHOTO: Yellow shows the Line Of Work ascent and the Red s...
Topping out on Pitch #3
Jul 3, 2008
glad to hear you're up there climbing james!
i wish you would've hit us up first, clay and i ran these lines already (not collectively as three pitches). he and i never got back to give the finger crack a proper sunny-d-esque like cleaning, thus spawning 'king lizard' out of respect of my abscence.
we were still discussing the need and placements for bolts on the intial slab past the horizontals.
i had also freed the upper right leaning crack when we finished redneck slab, following the crack proper and scrambling over and rapping down near assumption as well.
i'm not too sure where to go with this. i wish we could've talked first.
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 3, 2008
I have to agree with grk10vq on this. We have spent a lot of time up there cleaning and scrubbing cracks in an attempt to make a really great area. The line that James FAed had been looked at and climbed in pieces. We wanted to make sure it was a worthy line for the area. This is one of those times where I think I might have posted up the new additions prematurely. (maybe I should have kept my mouth shut for awhile). There are still projects up there that we have been (are) working on. I realize that I (we) really don't have rock ownership, however a little communication could have gone a long ways. I hope now that the crack/line gets a good scrubbing to make it worthy of the area.
|By James Garrett|
Jul 3, 2008
If you guys have already climbed this, good on you for such bold leads. That must have been rad! My sincere apologies for in effect retrobolting it. Feel free to chop it or I will simply change all the FA data (let me know) and take only credit for equipping it. Whatever you want to do is OK with me...it certainly didn't look climbed and defintely not cleaned beforehand and I saw no chalk ANYWHERE when I climbed it. Furthermore, I apologise for not calling you and getting your permission to climb there.
Honest mistake....hopefully, you will concur.
Jul 4, 2008
James - so sorry for any confusion. I can see how you would have thought it was unclimbed because its a dirty place. We knew it was going to be a huge cleaning task and wanted to really hit it hard before anyone got on it. Another 40 hours? I sure as hell hope not! I'm sure you can appreciate the difficulty in cleaning new lines as you've put in your share of hard work that way.
We were working on it when I broke my foot and then it got hot and I'm still a gimp. I hate being so lame. This is the one ground up, traditional line Gregg and I have been getting our heads around. We were hoping to go sans fixed gear and had been working on how to do it. I was especially psyched for the gear in those horizontals and feel we'll be able to pull it off safely but I know it'll be a close call with some serious commitment to pull off. Now that you've been on it you'll have to give us the beta on the feasability of that.
Let's talk - give me a call - I'm in your phone. If you want some lines to do I have a few ideas you'd really love.
Sep 2, 2008
A0 bolt ladder on a slab?
|By John Steiger|
Sep 4, 2011
Got spanked on the first pitch. Hard to believe the bolt ladder has been freed at only 5.11; we had to yank on draws to get through it – maybe we just didn’t have enough coffee. Terribly flaky rock too. We ended up doing King Lizard. On the rap down, we went over Another Day’s 2nd pitch finger crack—the crack appears to be filling in with vegetation; might want to bring a gardening tool. By the way, isn’t the 2nd pitch finger crack the same as Delicacy?