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The Split Boulder
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Anorexorcist 
Bones to Bits 
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Anorexorcist 

Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 6'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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matt down low... this was my favorite part of the ...

Description 

A fun, short power problem that climbs a bottomless block. Sit start with both hands matched on a sloping jug rail on the bottom right corner. Heel hook next to your hands to pull on and dangle before making a move out to the edges, bump left hand again, then match. Rock up on the heel and around the arete to a crimp (crux) or the lip if you're long.

This problem is at 1:48


Location 

This boulder is a chunk of the Split Boulder, behind Halcyon and My Little Pony. If facing those problems, walk right about ten feet.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Anorexorcist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: So close, but so far away...
So close, but so far away...
Rock Climbing Photo: matt close!
matt close!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike T...  BAM!
Mike T... BAM!

Comments on Anorexorcist Add Comment
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By Alex Kendrall
Jun 13, 2009

So do you start with your hands matched on the rail where his heel hook is in the picture?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Jun 14, 2009

Yep. Two hands and a heel where his heel is now to start, then move left to where his left hand is before reaching for the crimp as seen.
By Cryptic C62
From: Boston, MA
Nov 25, 2014

This climb definitely falls in the category of "Hmm, this doesn't look that hard..." (20 seconds later) "I'm an idiot."
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 10, 2015
rating: V7- 7A+

Careful on this climb, I pulled my hamstring on it from the heel hook you use during the crux...

Make sure you warm up well and stretch before trying anything with an intense heel hook like this.

Also the FA was Brett Meyers.
By tylermoody
Nov 29, 2015

There is a small, easily overlooked bulge to the right of the arete that can make this problem possible if you don't have the wingspan or power to reach the rail at the end. You can see Mike's hand on it in the 'BAM' picture. There isn't much surface area to pull on, but it's enough to let you shift your hips over your right foot before finishing.
By Graham O.
Jul 7, 2016

Decent climb, awesome boulder!

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