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Anorexic Doughboy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011
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Description 

This is an enjoyable route and is one of the least sustained routes at Trout Creek. This makes it a good warm-up, cool-down or first lead at Trout Creek. The left crack is quite small but eats gear and has excellent jams to help with your upward progress. The right crack is offwidth and offset such that it forms a great place to place your back while chimney climbing. The first 50-60 feet can be chimney climbed in this manner, placing pro in the smaller left crack (5.6-5.7). Leave the security of the chimney and transfer to the left crack to harder climbing with good rests up and left to a chain anchor (5.8).


Location 

This climb is to the left of Shasta which is to the left of Lively Up Yourself. It can be easily identified as a chimney route with a small crack to the left and a larger offwidth crack to the right. The cracks are offset enough that a chimney is formed. This allows for stable stances most of the way up making it easy to place good pro.


Protection 

Unlike many climbs at Trout Creek, this climb eats up nuts, I placed 3 medium offset nuts on it and could have placed more. Also bring a set of cams to 2" or 3" with emphasis on the smaller cams.



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