Anorexic Doughboy  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>> SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! The golden eagle nesting season is underway and the closure begins tomorrow, 1/15/2013. Last year, climbers demonstrated a 100% compliance rate with the voluntary test closure, and we need to make sure to repeat that showing. Unlike last year, this is a mandatory, not voluntary closure for all users including climbers and hikers. This means the BLM will be monitoring the territory and has the power to issue tickets for entering the closure area, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The soonest the closure could be partially lifted is May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios at that time. Please spread the word, climb elsewhere until further notice! NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND Taken verbatim from a post by Jeff Wenger on the topic: "The climbing and part of the approach at Trout Creek sit on a fuzzy boundary of BLM and private land. The land on the mesa above the columns is part of a huge piece of property owned by the original settlers of Gateway, the Vibbert family. It is used to graze cattle and for several months every year as a pay-to-play bird hunting “preserve”. The property also contains an old homestead, a large productive farm, ponds, creeks, 4x4 roads, and an amazing solitary gravesite on the canyon rim between the crag and the campground. What we have here is an old sprawling property with several spotty boundaries on its BLM borders. The family had some BIG reservations about people being up there, mostly because they assumed climbers would want to cross their property and of course they had concerns about liability. Why have things changed? By NOT attempting to access the crag over private property, we’ve built trust with the before-weary Vibberts. They feel much better about us being in the area (and that REALLY matters in this case) compared to their initial, understandable reservations. So long as we continue to respect their land by NOT using it to access the cliff, more climbers shouldn’t be a big deal…and more climbers is what posting will bring. I had the recent opportunity to meet with the guy who manages the hunting preserve for the Vibberts. He mentioned that he checks-in on the crag (what the family calls ‘dry island’) and has been very impressed with the fact that people have been respectful of the land. The Vibbert family loves the area and appreciates the fact others do too (even if the climbing is abrasive and physical!!). They’re thankful we take the time to walk in from the campground and that we encourage others to only access the climbing from below (I.E. lead rather than walk around to TR/rap ). Since neither the county nor the Vibberts are 100% clear on the boundary lines with the BLM and since they once owned all of what is now Gateway, the positive relations we have established are key for long-term access." This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is an enjoyable route and is one of the least sustained routes at Trout Creek. This makes it a good warm-up, cool-down or first lead at Trout Creek. The left crack is quite small but eats gear and has excellent jams to help with your upward progress. The right crack is offwidth and offset such that it forms a great place to place your back while chimney climbing. The first 50-60 feet can be chimney climbed in this manner, placing pro in the smaller left crack (5.6-5.7). Leave the security of the chimney and transfer to the left crack to harder climbing with good rests up and left to a chain anchor (5.8).

Location 

This climb is to the left of Shasta which is to the left of Lively Up Yourself. It can be easily identified as a chimney route with a small crack to the left and a larger offwidth crack to the right. The cracks are offset enough that a chimney is formed. This allows for stable stances most of the way up making it easy to place good pro.

Protection 

Unlike many climbs at Trout Creek, this climb eats up nuts, I placed 3 medium offset nuts on it and could have placed more. Also bring a set of cams to 2" or 3" with emphasis on the smaller cams.