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Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Ass Cannibal S 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Obscure Adventure T,TR 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction S 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 

Anonymous Flake Right 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
Season: All year
Page Views: 5,048
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Wife following the route.


Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it.


Follow the base trail until you reach the tallest face on the wall. The large flake above will be very obvious to spot.

GPS- 38,56,27 -78,18,9,


Bring .5-2 Camalots and some larger nuts. One bolt on the climb. Bring your own webbing to lower from the trees at the top.

Photos of Anonymous Flake Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen finishing out on the namesakes flake.
Owen finishing out on the namesakes flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike 0 leading Anonymous Flake Right
Mike 0 leading Anonymous Flake Right
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb.
BETA PHOTO: Great climb.

Comments on Anonymous Flake Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Hensley
From: Fairfax, VA
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I found the pro to be a little bit tricky in places. Furthermore, the large exfoliation flake on the right is completely hollow. Time bomb. Once you hit the bolt, the pro issues end. The namesake flake is very solid.
By Travis Senor
From: Mailing Address in NC
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fantastic climb. Doesn't seem quite like a 5.8, maybe 5.7+ at the crux between the bolt and the flake, but the crux is relatively short. Hold and feet are all good, just need a little balance!

And definitely watch the large hollow rock to the right most of the distance below the bolt.
By Colin Dandridge
From: Golden
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with both of them.
By Spencer Perry
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Gear is sparse before the bolt, but the climbing is pretty mild. Definitely the best trad route at Buzzard Rocks if you are comfortable running out on the slab.

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