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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Hours of Labor 
Alpha Centauri 
Angina 
Angina II 
Anomie 
Bucket Brigade 
Charybdis 
Coronary 
Flakes Away 
Happy Hunting Grounds 
Land's End 
Mother Fletcher's 
Nice Corner 
No Fruit Please 
Pie Plate 
R. Exam 
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The 
Scylla 
Vivesection 
Walpurgisnacht Direct 
Yellow Pages 

Anomie 

5.9 PG13

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: Jay Stewart
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Shot 1:3, entering into the crux of Anomie, Matt S...

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Description 

Up into the alcove. Exit to the right (the crux). Move up and right a few moves, then continue more or less straight up. It is also possible to move just a little further right, and get on the middle part of "Alpha C."


Location 

In between "Charybdis" and "Alpha Centauri" is an alcove capped by a roof.


Protection 

Standard rack, with one big cam to 4 inches.



Photos of Anomie Slideshow Add Photo
Shot 2:3, now into the crux of Anomie, Matt Satermo climbing.  Sept 09.

Shot 2:3, now into the crux of Anomie, Matt Saterm...

Shot 3:3, finishing the crux of Anomie, Matt Satermo climbing.  Sept 09.

Shot 3:3, finishing the crux of Anomie, Matt Sater...


Comments on Anomie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2012
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 22, 2008

The crux moves may not be obvious, and protecting them may be even less obvious, but the rest of the route is straightforward, classic Devils Lake face & incipient crack climbing.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+

Fun crux section. Definitely makes you think before you move.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2009

Agree-- protecting that crux move, unless you can see the future, is troublesome.

By Trad Nanny
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.9+ PG13

Sandbag! I did the roof exit moves and buried a #2 Ball-nut that was hard to get in. It made me think; "What would I have done without that ball-nut?" Classic DL.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 28, 2010

Ha! Yeah Nick, I was stumped there for a while too, then shoved a larger (#3 I think?) cam semi-blindly upward into where Matt's right hand is on this photo: mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/devils_lake/east_bluff__east>>> Classic route.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8

Awesome lead! Much more enjoyable and protectable than Charybdis, IMO.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 10, 2012

Adam.... Gear Beta? This one is on my hit list still for this year!

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8

Be ready for a little spice and biggish gear for the lake.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8

Isaac is right Burt. I used two #3 C4's in my first three placements. The big slot that Matt is going to in the second picture takes one of these beautifully. After that I had a small wire, and a mix of smaller sized cams to the top. Enjoy!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 11, 2012

Oh cool Adam. Nick had me freak'n in my climbing slacks about onsight lead'n this route.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012

Sincere apologies to Remo. In my previous comments to him I couldn't perform the simple task of addressing him with his actual name.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012

I thought about correcting you Bart, then I decided it was funnier to not correct you.