Anomie 5.9 PG13
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Shot 1:3, entering into the crux of Anomie, Matt S...
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Description Up into the alcove. Exit to the right (the crux). Move up and right a few moves, then continue more or less straight up. It is also possible to move just a little further right, and get on the middle part of "Alpha C."
Location In between "Charybdis" and "Alpha Centauri" is an alcove capped by a roof.
Protection Standard rack, with one big cam to 4 inches.
Shot 2:3, now into the crux of Anomie, Matt Saterm...
| Shot 3:3, finishing the crux of Anomie, Matt Sater...
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By Doug Hemken Administrator Sep 22, 2008
| The crux moves may not be obvious, and protecting them may be even less obvious, but the rest of the route is straightforward, classic Devils Lake face & incipient crack climbing. |
By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Jul 27, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Fun crux section. Definitely makes you think before you move. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 20, 2009
| Agree-- protecting that crux move, unless you can see the future, is troublesome. |
By Trad Nanny May 15, 2010 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| Sandbag! I did the roof exit moves and buried a #2 Ball-nut that was hard to get in. It made me think; "What would I have done without that ball-nut?" Classic DL. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Sep 10, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Awesome lead! Much more enjoyable and protectable than Charybdis, IMO. |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 10, 2012
| Adam.... Gear Beta? This one is on my hit list still for this year! |
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Sep 10, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Be ready for a little spice and biggish gear for the lake. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Sep 11, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Isaac is right Burt. I used two #3 C4's in my first three placements. The big slot that Matt is going to in the second picture takes one of these beautifully. After that I had a small wire, and a mix of smaller sized cams to the top. Enjoy! |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 11, 2012
| Oh cool Adam. Nick had me freak'n in my climbing slacks about onsight lead'n this route. |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 12, 2012
| Sincere apologies to Remo. In my previous comments to him I couldn't perform the simple task of addressing him with his actual name. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 12, 2012
| I thought about correcting you Bart, then I decided it was funnier to not correct you. |
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