Shot 2:3, now into the crux of Anomie, Matt Saterm...
Up into the alcove. Exit to the right (the crux). Move up and right a few moves, then continue more or less straight up. It is also possible to move just a little further right, and get on the middle part of "Alpha C."
In between "Charybdis" and "Alpha Centauri" is an alcove capped by a roof.
Adam.... Gear Beta? This one is on my hit list still for this year!
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Sep 10, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Be ready for a little spice and biggish gear for the lake.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Sep 11, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Isaac is right Burt. I used two #3 C4's in my first three placements. The big slot that Matt is going to in the second picture takes one of these beautifully. After that I had a small wire, and a mix of smaller sized cams to the top. Enjoy!