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 ADVANCED
Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Hours of Labor TR 
Alpha Centauri T 
Angina T,TR 
Angina II T,TR 
Anomie T 
Bucket Brigade T 
Charybdis T,TR 
Coronary T,TR 
Flakes Away TR 
Happy Hunting Grounds T 
Land's End T,TR 
Mother Fletcher's T 
Nice Corner T,TR 
No Fruit Please TR 
Pie Plate TR 
R. Exam T,TR 
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 
Scylla T 
Vivesection T 
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 
Yellow Pages T 

Anomie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jay Stewart
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Shot 2:3, now into the crux of Anomie, Matt Saterm...

Description 

Up into the alcove. Exit to the right (the crux). Move up and right a few moves, then continue more or less straight up. It is also possible to move just a little further right, and get on the middle part of "Alpha C."


Location 

In between "Charybdis" and "Alpha Centauri" is an alcove capped by a roof.


Protection 

Standard rack, with one big cam to 4 inches.



Photos of Anomie Slideshow Add Photo
Shot 3:3, finishing the crux of Anomie, Matt Satermo climbing.  Sept 09.
Shot 3:3, finishing the crux of Anomie, Matt Sater...
Shot 1:3, entering into the crux of Anomie, Matt Satermo climbing.  Sept 09.
Shot 1:3, entering into the crux of Anomie, Matt S...
Comments on Anomie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2012
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 22, 2008

The crux moves may not be obvious, and protecting them may be even less obvious, but the rest of the route is straightforward, classic Devils Lake face & incipient crack climbing.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun crux section. Definitely makes you think before you move.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 20, 2009

Agree-- protecting that crux move, unless you can see the future, is troublesome.

By Tradoholic
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Sandbag! I did the roof exit moves and buried a #2 Ball-nut that was hard to get in. It made me think; "What would I have done without that ball-nut?" Classic DL.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 28, 2010

Ha! Yeah Nick, I was stumped there for a while too, then shoved a larger (#3 I think?) cam semi-blindly upward into where Matt's right hand is on this photo: mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/devils_lake/east_bluff__east>>> Classic route.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome lead! Much more enjoyable and protectable than Charybdis, IMO.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 10, 2012

Adam.... Gear Beta? This one is on my hit list still for this year!

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Be ready for a little spice and biggish gear for the lake.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Isaac is right Burt. I used two #3 C4's in my first three placements. The big slot that Matt is going to in the second picture takes one of these beautifully. After that I had a small wire, and a mix of smaller sized cams to the top. Enjoy!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 11, 2012

Oh cool Adam. Nick had me freak'n in my climbing slacks about onsight lead'n this route.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012

Sincere apologies to Remo. In my previous comments to him I couldn't perform the simple task of addressing him with his actual name.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012

I thought about correcting you Bart, then I decided it was funnier to not correct you.