Type: | Trad, 7 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Mark & Carlie Ronca |
Page Views: | 1,376 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | kyle kingrey on Jul 13, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Ann's Ridge
FA: Mark & Carlie Ronca, 5.9.
This ascend a long, broken ridge that begins at the road and continues to top of valley. It is an adventurous route with fun positions and varied climbing. There is some loose rock that may improve with more traffic.
Rack: a single set stoppers, a double set cams to #2, and a #3.5 cam.
The pitch from the road is not recommended due to loose rock. Scramble up the right side of the ridge, then move left to the base of the first buttress.
Pitch 1, 5.6: scramble up slab to a wide crack on the south face of buttress. Climb crack and face with good holds. Exit right and belay on top. Move belay across saddle to the base of the crux traverse.
Pitch 2, 5.9: scramble up left, then traverse right in thin seams to arete (crux). Climb up arete directly, and belay at the top of this second buttress at bolted anchors (30m) or link this with P3. There is a fixed pin in small bush.
Pitch 3, 4th Class: descend to the saddle. Bushwhack up a slope, and traverse left on a large ledge at the base of the third buttress. Continue up, and belay at a large juniper at the base of the fourth buttress (25m).
Pitch 4, 5.7: climb a quartz crack to a slab. Follow a rib up onto left side of the fourth buttress. Climb a wide crack (#3.5 cam), and exit right to belay at a horizontal crack (45m?).
Pitch 5, 5.8: make s rising traverse right under s bulge. Continue around right arete, then make a long traverse right into s corner. Climb the corner to s large, sloping belay ledge (30m).
Pitch 6, 5.7: step down and left to climb a left-facing corner. Climb the corner system to broken terrain. Belay at a large ledge with a tree.
Pitch 7, 5.4: pass the final buttress around the right side. Continue up lower angle terrain to the top.
Descent: walk off the ridge east of the climb, then exit into one of several low angle gullies back to car.
1 Comment