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Josh Finkelstein in the last pitch wide crack.
This route starts with the fun part of the Gimp Route
and then climbs some more pleasant pitches in a nice position.
Start with the first two (fun) pitches of the Gimp Route
, but belay on the far left of the grassy ledge atop the 2nd pitch.
3) Step left around the arete onto the front side of the buttress and climb easy ground and grassy steps up for a little over a 100 feet to a really nice grassy ledge. Walk left 25 feet or so from the arete to belay below a flake system. 5.6.
4) Climb into the flake system, then follow the arete to another ledge after 60 feet or so. Belay below an obvious, steep, hand and fist crack. 5.9.
5) Climb the hand and fist crack to the top of the wall. 5.9+, maybe 50 feet. This pitch can easily be avoided by climbing the gully to the right.
The same start as the Gimp Route, on a broken 30 foot high pillar at the far end of the buttress with Fallen Angel and Noth'n but a Good Time.
Standard Rack through #4 C4 Camalot
The first pitch. Great Stuff!