|746 page views|
Starting the long and exposed traverse to install ...
first pitch past some scary looking (but better than it looks) rock to fixed nut and toward bolt then into a short sweet crack. Past crack is easy but loose climbing to gain a narrow, flat ledge at two ring anchors. The second pitch is the money, start thin and clip bolt then pull committing crux, a small bulge/roof. Getting to the roof on thin balancy holds is actually the crux, the top of the little roof is flat and you can pull/mantle over it pretty easily. continue on good rock over face and two short bulges past more bolts to exposed and beautiful summitt. May be a couple of options for some small gear to supplement bolts if you want. rap with 60m rope just gets you to ring anchors and a second rap to deck.
Walk out of the icebox and stay close to the right hand side of the opening canyon. About 5 minutes from the icebox on your right will be a large turrett, be looking for a bolt about 25 feet up.
bolts and light rack of small to medium nuts and cams.
|By manuel rangel|
Feb 23, 2012
I almost died on this route. We tried doing it as a single pitch; wrong idea. When I tried to pass the roof/crux after a low bolt, I fell and fell because somehow my belayer thought I was clipping, even after I had fallen at the same place a couple of times. She finally stopped me and I ended up with a swollen rather than a broken neck. Do it in two pitches and ask Scot to put in a bolt at the crux...