The final pitch is really the bread & butter of this route.
P1- 5.7R, 200': Climb a slab with minimal pro and trend left. Aim for a large, talus-covered ledge with a big tree. NOTE: The ledge can be reached by a gully to the left, but this is often wet, has much loose rock, and is generally unpleasant. You can also avoid the runout 5.7 portion by climbing an easy crack just to its right.Check the book for details if you want.
P2- 5.8, ~180': Spot a finger-hand crack on a blunt arete at the left end of the ledge. Climb this to a grassy ledge, where a belay can be set up (the seam you can see here is 5.10 and hard to protect, but with good moves). Continue up easy ground, aiming for the splitter crack in the upper headwall. Belay below this crack.
P3- 5.9, 120': Sweet finger-hand crack with a few nice jugs! Pull through three mini-roof sections utilizing finger and hand james. Very fun.
Approach and Descent, see Omega Buttress
The crack takes a variety of gear. Maybe doubles in the .75"-2" range.
|By Andrew Carson|
From: Wilson, WY
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The first two pitches are forgettable. The last pitch is stellar. Perhaps do Dihedral of Horrors, then rap down and do this last pitch. A good day.
|By jon jugenheimer|
May 27, 2014
What is the crack to the left of this route?