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Annadonia 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,218
Submitted By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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John Groth

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Description 

A tough start into some really good powerful climbing. The final moves are pretty tough too.


Location 

This route is about 10 feet to the left of Looking for Lust.


Protection 

Bring a 60m rope and 8 draws.



Photos of Annadonia Slideshow Add Photo
annadonia follows the crack systems up to and over the roof.
annadonia follows the crack systems up to and over...
start.
start.
Comments on Annadonia Add Comment
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Did this climb a long time ago and then bouldered the bottom again last summer. Either I have gotten a lot better (possible) or the bottom is a lot easier now than it was then (probable). Does anyone know if it's been modified or has the traffic just worn the patina off making that holds deeper and better?

By Darin Limvere
Oct 30, 2007

Many believe the two finger pocket was drilled out pretty hard. bummer. The feet have gotten greasier though. Maybe it equals it out. I remember the pocket being a full pad two finger. Now I can get 3/4 of my finger in it......?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

That's what I thought. That's too bad.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 4, 2007

I'm curious about this chipped hold issue. The first day I climbed at Red Wing, about six ago, the guy that I climbed with pointed to Annadonia and told me that someone had come "in the last couple of years" and chipped a new hold into the start (Buddy Tangolous). One of the holds definitely looks chiseled, but I don't think the other holds were touched. My guess is that the chipping was an isolated incident, and that it happened more than six years ago. Anybody have any ideas to the contrary? Anybody know who did it?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 5, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Well, I am not sure who, what, why, or when, but I know where. All I know is I did the full route once, on September 21, 2003, and have not been on it in it's entirety since that day, but I bouldered the bottom of it summer 2006 and it seemed a *lot* easier. There was a very shallow crimp for 2 fingers that was essentially the crux of the route right off the ground in 2003. Now it's a deep pocket, see Darin's comment above. Other than that, I have no idea. I have a hard time believing anyone would purposefully drill it out, maybe all the natural wear? Doubtful...

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 11, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

route goes on gear. small nuts, singles of #4, #1 camalots; doubles of orange TCU. few 24" runners for gear below the roof.

By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010

For climbers breaking into 11's careful at the top crux its a doozy.

By Joel Andersen
Aug 3, 2010

Does anyone have any information about the .12a finish that the guidebook mentions? Is that follow the right side of the nose the whole way until it ends and then traversing back left to the anchors?

Edit: I must be missing something on the crux at the top (should be 11a/b version), since the last 10 feet of Annadonia feels balls harder than the entire 50 or 60 feet of Chinese Freedom. As far as I can tell I seem to be following the guidebook's line.

By Eric Swanson
From: Plymouth
Nov 6, 2011

Can confirm that the route goes on gear. Not too bad until the last 10-15 feet. Bring a big cam or two for the huecos at the top. Fun.