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Ankar Gate 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hubbel
Page Views: 1,020
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3.


Hike past the tiered bivy spot on the far left side up to a ledge system. The route follows the face formed by the large gully under the "neck" of Sheeprock.

P1: There are two variations. The right is harder. Face climb near the edge of the right facing corner, until you have to traverse out over the roof, right. Ginish on a rounded arete.

P2: Excellent. This has exposed and wandering face climbing. The belay ledge is a little rotten and a large spooky block looms.

P3: This has sustained face and edges close to the huge, right-facing dihedral. Belay at the base of a dihedral.

You can escape right across bolted 5th class traverse to the saddle, or rap.


QDs only, two ropes for raps.

Photos of Ankar Gate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom leading the stellar 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Tom leading the stellar 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, both variations.
BETA PHOTO: P1, both variations.
Rock Climbing Photo: Found these on the rap.  Pre bolts or short ropes?...
Found these on the rap. Pre bolts or short ropes?...

Comments on Ankar Gate Add Comment
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By slim
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought the left hand of the first pitch variations was slightly harder. In either case, the first pitch is the crux, but well-protected.

The second pitch, in my opinion, is the best pitch of 5.9 face in the Platte. I would say that it is the equivalent of the 2nd pitch of the Center Route on Cyn Pin. This pitch is long, sustained, well-protected, on amazing rock with a climactic end.

The third pitch has a very different feel. It is still excellent, but the style is totally different.

This is a terrific route.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Aug 5, 2012

Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests.

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