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Ankar Gate 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Fleschmann bros?
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3.

Description 

Hike past the tiered bivy spot on the far left side up to a ledge system. The route follows the face formed by the large gully under the "neck" of Sheeprock.

P1: There are two variations. The right is harder. Face climb near the edge of the right facing corner, until you have to traverse out over the roof, right. Ginish on a rounded arete.

P2: Excellent. This has exposed and wandering face climbing. The belay ledge is a little rotten and a large spooky block looms.

P3: This has sustained face and edges close to the huge, right-facing dihedral. Belay at the base of a dihedral.

You can escape right across bolted 5th class traverse to the saddle, or rap.

Protection 

QDs only, two ropes for raps.


Photos of Ankar Gate Slideshow Add Photo
Tom leading the stellar 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Tom leading the stellar 2nd pitch.
P1, both variations.
BETA PHOTO: P1, both variations.
Found these on the rap.  Pre bolts or short ropes?...
Found these on the rap. Pre bolts or short ropes?...

Comments on Ankar Gate Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought the left hand of the first pitch variations was slightly harder. In either case, the first pitch is the crux, but well-protected.

The second pitch, in my opinion, is the best pitch of 5.9 face in the Platte. I would say that it is the equivalent of the 2nd pitch of the Center Route on Cyn Pin. This pitch is long, sustained, well-protected, on amazing rock with a climactic end.

The third pitch has a very different feel. It is still excellent, but the style is totally different.

This is a terrific route.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Aug 5, 2012

Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests.