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Animal World

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Instinct 
Animal Magnetism 
Animal Riots Activist 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 
Automatic Choke 
Balance, The 
Beast Food Left 
Beast Food Right 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 
Blockhead 
Cannabis Sportiva 
Closer To God 
Cold Snap 
Crack Corner 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 
Evolution Revolution 
Familiar Strangers 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) 
Fifth World, The 
Free Willie 
Global Gorilla 
Gull Whackers 
Hands of Destiny 
Hope and Pray 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
Joint Venture 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
Lazy Day 
Lovely to See You 
Melancholy Man 
New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
Reversal Roof 
Ride My See-saw 
Split Personality 
Strange Times 
Sundog 
Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

Animal World 


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Location: 39.9978, -105.4149 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001
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Bob Horan trad on Hands of Destiny, Animal World.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Lower Animal World crag contains a good selection of bolted sport routes, as well as a handful of moderate crack climbs. The upper Animal World cliff contains about 15 superb bolted sport climbs, with most falling in the 5.11-5.12+ range. A few will require either two ropes to get down, or need to be done a couple of pitches (bolted belay stations are provided for these climbs). The rock quality is fantastic, and all of the routes are well bolted and are of the highest quality. The cliff is divided into two sides by an arete, and most of the climbs lie on the left side.

L->R:

Lower Cliff
A. Crack Corner, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Triple Play, 10a, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
C. Animal Riots Activist, 12-, 1p, bolts.
D. Piles of Trials, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
E. Automatic Choke, 12. 1p, 50', gear.
F. Cannabis Sportiva, 10, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
G. Old Dihedral, 8, 1p, 45', gear.
H. Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food), 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
I. Joint Venture, 11-, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
above H & I. Beast Food Left, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
above H & I. Beast Food Right, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
J. Gull Whackers, 8, 1p, 95', gear & bolts.
K. Animation aka Jaycene's Dance, 8, 1p, 100', originally gear, now bolts.
L. Unfamiliar Stranger, 9, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
M. Familiar Strangers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.

N. Cold Snap, 11-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
O. Free Willie, 11-, 1p, <100', bolts.
P. Days of Future Passed, 12-, 1p, <100', bolts, fixed pro.
Q. Threshold Of A Dream, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
R. Nice To Be Here, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
S. Reversal Roof, 13-, 1p, bolts.
T. Lovely to See You, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
U. Tuesday Afternoon, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
V. Melancholy Man, 11, 1p, 75', bolts & sling.
W. Is It Ready Yet...Moe, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
X. We Don't Do Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
Y. Lazy Day, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
Z. Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
ZZ. Geritol Generation, 9-, 50', gear.

Above Z and ZZ:
AA. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
BB. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
CC. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 2p, 110', bolts.
DD1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
DD2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
EE. POS, 7, 2p, gear.
FF. Crack, 1p, gear.
GG. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
HH. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
II. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

Upper Cliff
A. Krakatoa, 10, 1p, gear.
B. The Fifth World, 12, 1p, gear.
C. Hands of Destiny, 12+, 2p, 60m rope req'd, gear & bolts.
D. Animal Instinct, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Sundog, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Evolution Revolution, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Global Gorilla, 12, 1-3p, 170', bolts.
H. Animal Magnetism, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
I. Animal Antagonizer, 13+?, 1p, bolts.
J. Cujo Magnetism, 12-, 1p, bolts.
K. Cujo Tranquilizer, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Pit Bull Prowser, 13-, 1-2p, bolts.
M. Wandervogel, 11- R (crosses Cujo Tranquilizer), 2p, gear.
N. New Beginnings, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
O. Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head, 11+, 3p, 150', bolts & gear.

P.? ??, 11, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.


Getting There 

There are two ways to reach the Animal World cliffs. Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), and walk up to the base of the Boulderado cliff. From the left (West) side of the Boulderado follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. Take this right turn (it should lead you above and behind the Boulderado cliff), until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.

To reach the Upper Animal World cliff, continue along the base of the Lower cliff (towards the right side of it) until you reach its end. The Upper cliff lies uphill and to the right of the Lower cliff. The upper cliff is almost 200 feet tall, and faces downhill.

A different approach can be made by walking right from the base of the Boulderado for 75 yards before heading straight uphill to the Upper cliff. Be EXTREMELY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below. And while you're at it, try not to let yourself fall down onto the road either.


49 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',15],['5.12',15],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Animal World:
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Unfamiliar Strangers   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Is It Ready Yet...Moe   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 80'   
Talking Out Of Turn   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Free Willie   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cannabis Sportiva   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Joint Venture   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Animal Magnetism   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Isn't Life Strange   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 105'   
Threshold Of A Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Cujo Tranquilizer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     , 1 pitch, 100'   
Animal Riots Activist   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Split Personality   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Evolution Revolution   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Piles of Trials   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Fifth World   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Global Gorilla   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 170'   
Animal Instinct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hands of Destiny   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Animal World

Featured Route For Animal World
BH, lycra clad and trad on Hands of Destiny.

Hands of Destiny 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
This very excellent route permits you to climb in two pitches the very nice East face of the Animal World in Boulder Canyon. You may begin to climb by first getting up an easy ledge to the start of the climb. After only about 10 meters, there is the most difficult part to climb. After this, it is mostly 5.11 to arrive at the end of pitch number 1. The next section is very nice to climb at the 5.10 grade, and it has quite fine bolting for protection. For one whole week, I have trained for this ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Animal World Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the east side of Animal World. <br /> <br />P. The Fifth World 12b, 11 bolts plus gear. <br />Q. Hands of Destiny 12c/d, bolts. <br />R. Animal Instinct 12c, 7 bolts. <br />T. Evolution Revolution 12b/c, 9 bolts. <br />U. Global Gorilla, bolts. Three pitches. P1: 11b.  P2: 12b/c. P3: 12b. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the east side of Animal World.

P. The F...
Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
BETA PHOTO: Taken from Sleeping Beauty Slab
Right side.
Right side.
Left side.
Left side.
Comments on Animal World Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2003

I have seen very serious accidents on these bends caused by rockfall. While the chances are these were due to natural causes, it's not worth the risk. Take the usual approach, and save someone's life.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 7, 2005

When you are walking up to Animal World there is another small crag about 50 feet above the trail when the trail heads right over the top of Boulderado.

The rock has about 5 lines. The two middle ones share an anchor, the left is probably 9+ or 10 - and the right side is probably 12. Off to the right is an easy route, probably 5.6 The routes are maybe 35 - 40 ft high.

Does anyone know if these routes are on this site? They're not stellar, but not too bad.

By ac
Jun 8, 2005

Mine Hole Crag, it is on this site.

By Joe Collins
Jun 8, 2005

The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 8, 2005

Look for those routes under "Mine Hole Crag". They are all reasonably enjoyable, with the 5.12 beyond my current limits. Make sure you finish off the visit with the 5.8 crack on the right. :)_

By Joe Collins
Jun 8, 2005

I looked up "Mine Hole Crag"... the route I was referring to is a different one: "Ruff Roof". Apparently there are more climbs up there than I thought.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2008

I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk in, but I can see how people can easily go too far up.

By lukas hill
Mar 9, 2009

Lost my Canon point 'n' shoot up there on 3/7/09. If you found it can, you call Lukas at 720-381-8159 or drop it by Neptune's Mountaineering.
cheers

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Apr 14, 2009

To the Admin-
It's nice the way the Animal World home page is organized w/ all the routes listed starting from one side of the cliff, even if there isn't a pg. specifically for every route. It helps immensely when trying to figure out the overall layout of the area. It would be great if more of the pages describing an area were organized this way.
Just my 2cents worth.
cheers, BA

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2009

Blockhead is between I. and J.

By Adamatrix
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2011

Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree, after climbing at Animal World. Anybody pick it up Tuesday July 12 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail.

By Ben Weisman
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2012

Hey I found a pair of small Skigear snow/rain pants on the approach to Animal World last Thursday. Let me know what name is on the tag, and I'll get them back to you!

By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 14, 2013

Found: pair of reading glasses at the crag, looks like they may have been there for a couple weeks....