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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T,S 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Animal Riots Activist 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Rick Leitner
Page Views: 6,254
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Holly Yeary - Animal Riots Activist 5.12a

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fantastic "Gym Style" climb, this is the third route from the left (west) on the west buttress of Animal World. It is somewhat camouflaged behind a pine tree on the approach. Perfect holds with thoughtfully placed clips lead up increasingly steeper and harder climbing to an incredible sloper move to surmount a roof. Don't let your guard down for the finish as the climbing switches gears into a 11a slab to the anchors!

Protection 

7-8 draws plus anchors.


Photos of Animal Riots Activist Slideshow Add Photo
It gets harder....
It gets harder....
Routes on the far left side of Animal World. <br /> <br />Crack Corner, 7, gear. <br />Triple Play, 10a, gear & bolts. <br />Animal Riots Activist, 12a, bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World. Crac...
Just before the lunge to the crimp....
Just before the lunge to the crimp....
Heel hook beta?
Heel hook beta?
Dana cutting loose on the crux.
Dana cutting loose on the crux.
@ the crux!!
@ the crux!!
Mico Alejandro making the 4th clip just before the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Mico Alejandro making the 4th clip just before the...
Mico Alejandro at the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Mico Alejandro at the crux.
Sticking the deadpoint sloper (very positive) that marks the beginning of the crux sequence of the route.
Sticking the deadpoint sloper (very positive) that...
Thank-god-jug rest before the sloper rail and crux of the route.
Thank-god-jug rest before the sloper rail and crux...
Red line marks the route and black Xs mark bolts and the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Red line marks the route and black Xs mark bolts a...
The lower section of the route with some fun and easy 10 moves on relatively large holds.
The lower section of the route with some fun and e...
Bill leading Thru Activist!!
Bill leading Thru Activist!!
Working higher and higher on some moderate 11 terrain to the crux of the route.
Working higher and higher on some moderate 11 terr...
Nice Bo Can day and a fun climb.
Nice Bo Can day and a fun climb.
On the positive slopers of the crux and figuring out the foot beta for the mantle.
On the positive slopers of the crux and figuring o...
Arielle Danielson - Animal Riots Activist
Arielle Danielson - Animal Riots Activist

Comments on Animal Riots Activist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 30, 2014
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2002
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Without commenting too much further on the grade, I can say that at 5'10" there is a dividing line. This climb [would] be significantly harder for short people than for tall people due to the [availability] to [toe-hook] the feet below the sloping rail. I'm 5'10" and have relatively long arms and found that I could reach everything I needed without a real struggle, but with not more than an inch to spare.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

This has to be one of the hardest 12a sport climbs in Boulder Canyon
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2002
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I did not think that this one was too hard, but maybe it plays to my strengths. It is a matter of just a few moves. Shoulder strength and arm length may be crux for some people, but for me it was more the footwork that gave me the body position I needed. 5.12a seems reasonable, I guess for a local grade on sport. I've been on harder 5.11s and easier 5.12s.
By jonah
May 29, 2003

Whoa. The hardest 12a I've ever been on. What toe hook are you talking about? I'm only 5'8", but I would think I would've at least seen something for the feet. I ended up just campusing through the slopers to the finger bucket at the end. Nice to see some Boulder Canyon climbs with honest (sandbagged) grades.
By Joe Collins
May 29, 2003

I agree with the comments above regarding this route. I got so flustered, falling repeatedly off the crux, that I tried to aid it by stepping in a sling, albeit unsuccessfully. I'm 6' tall with long arms so I don't think the problem is a reach issue. The crux seems to be sorting out your sequence of slaps along the slopey crimps at the lip of the bulge.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Oh sure, ask me a year later... (snicker)I honestly recall it not being that hard for 5.12a- maybe the same as Empire of the Fenceless (?). Anyway, the toe hooks I am talking about were like side-pulls for the toes down below and kept my body at the right angles to be somewhat secure with the available hands. No doubt, as this climb "wears in" over the years, it will get harder.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 19, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Difficult, one-move-wonder. Contrasted to Global Gorilla, it should earn a single star for the easy approach to the crux (5.9 or 5.10), single move crux perhaps two, a ledge rest before the last sequence, and a short route overall.

Slopey move to a deep slot. Gotta stick the sloper.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 25, 2003

I didn't find this route to be stout for 12a. In fact, Sun Dog - also 12a at Animal World - is significantly harder.
By ac
Oct 22, 2003

Beta: Stop reading if you don't want it. Left foot on nubbin, right on a good edge to the right, hands on the chalked jug well beneath the roof. High reach with LEFT hand to the left side of the sloping roof. Right foot out left kickback style. Right hand to a small crimpy sidepull out right below the roof (hard to see). Grab it, adjust left hand to slopy crimp on roof. Walk feet over to the right ending with the right foot on good sloper way out right. Then go for the slanting jug above the roof with your right hand.
By Erik L Ahrn_
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One hard move and that's pretty much it... Took me a while to figure out how to pull the crux.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 24, 2005

Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it.
By Charlie Fried
From: New York, NY
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This route is definitely similar to a gym climb. The crux is very difficult for shorter people. While you're on the sloper, the rope can get in the way of your foot maneuvering.
By Jason Anderson
Oct 15, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This felt significantly easier than 5.12s on nearby walls. I have recently had difficulty with Prince of Thieves 5.12a/b and Space Goats 5.11d. I want to rate this 11b, but to reduce conflict, I'll say 5.11c. I'm 5'6.5" +3.
By brain damage
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This climb is great an fairly easy hike up to the crux then play on the sloper for a while right hand over to crimper. Then throw for a little crack. Then walk up the rest.
By Eric Rak
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 27, 2010

Kind of a cruise to the crux but nice movement. Coming off of an elbow injury maybe I'm feeling soft, but the crux move seemed 12a to me.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 27, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed.
By chris v.
From: Chicago
Dec 18, 2011

This route is temperature dependent. Sent second go today, the middle of December. Comparing this to Empire of the Fenceless or Strange Science just across the canyon, I would say it sits in between. In 60+ degrees, it would be hard. 11d?
By Cesar Valencia
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'm short, so I went from the slopers and basically jumped to the good rail out right. Once I stuck that, I swung my right foot over and crossed my left hand into the rail and mantled up to the slab section. I thought it was a fun route overall.
By nelissam
Mar 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'm 5'3, so for me, it felt like 12a. I had to use small feet to get choked up on the sloper and then had to jump. Enjoyable movement.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'm 8ft. tall and this route felt like 5.9b. But, my girlfriend is only 3.6 inches tall and she said it felt like 5.17a so we split the difference and came up with 5.12a. Oh, and this is a good route too if you like that sort of thing.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02:

Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???).

Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy.

Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or something like that. Not sure what to say about that.

Short versus tall, either should work ok. Short would be better for heel hooking. Tall can throw further, but it is more shouldery. I missed ac's hidden crimp, maybe that would help. Another person had a good comment about paying attention to moving your leg around the rope.

My first go I didn't really enjoy it, but after I put it together, it was actually pretty fun. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area.
By Eli streed
Jun 5, 2014

No comment on grade; however, foot beta is important on this one. I found that cutting my feet at the lip and, with momentum, throwing my right foot on the obvious, large foot hold out right made this go down fairly easy. Ignore those tiny ticked jibs.... Stick to the good feet.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route.