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Animal Magnetism 
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Animal Magnetism 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans & Jim Angione 4/89
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: David Evans on Mar 14, 2003
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Description 

Climb a bulge past a fixed pin, then thin face past 3 bolts. It gets progressively easier but is a bit runout up to the crack at the top.


Protection 

Quickdraws and a small crack rack for the top.



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By Aaron Miller
Dec 28, 2013

This route is in need of some serious attention. The third, and final bolt before a 30 foot runout on easy slab is a mostly pulled out buttonhead bolt. The fixed pin is mostly hammered in but it protects the crux move (not super easy) and a failing pin here would be a 30+ foot groundfall. Last time I checked fixed pins were not intended to take repeated lead falls, especially when its not in all the way to the hilt.

The rock is super kitty-litter crumbly on this route probably because nobody does this. And to top it all off, a hand sized chunk of rock came off right before the crux.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 29, 2013

So Aaron, worth the attention as in new bolts and replace the old pin? Or.....just let it exfoliate to it's final demise? Todd's been good about fixing things up when needed but is it a "why bother" scenario?

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 29, 2013

What happened in 1989....stays in 1989.....(is that how it works?).....I remember the crux section, took us multiple tries......and finally someone cracked it on the lead....then we all followed w/no falls or hangs......sounds like it needs some "modernization".......Aaron Miller;...thanks for the update, and good job on the send.