Animal Cracker 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Greg Lowe & Dick Dorworth 60s |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on May 21, 2005 |
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The Animal Cracker
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Description Animal Cracker is the prominent flake leading into an offwidth on the Southwest side of Animal Cracker Rock. Start up the finger crack in the flake, traverse a bit right to a hand crack, then follow the flake up and right. Finally grunt up the offwidth through a roof to a set of chain anchors. Rap from here or continue for another pitch. Pitch 2 angles left into a hand crack. Climb this, which seams up quickly for a runout, yet easy finish on jugs to the top of the formation. Gear anchor needed, with a walkoff to the climber's right.
Protection Finger sized gear up through #5 C4 (or 4.5 camalot) for the first pitch. Hand sized pieces for the second pitch. Walk off.
The route...
| Near the flake.
| Jed, heading up Animal Cracker
| Ridding the flake
| Resting up, getting ready for the crux
| A stuck foot inside an off-width is never fun...bu...
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| Comments on Animal Cracker |
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By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Sep 20, 2006
| You might be able to protect the final crux moves with some RPs instead of a giant cam. I left mine on the ground. A single set of old style camalots to a #4 will protect this route well until the exit moves. If you like to sew it up, add an extra #1 or #2. A #6 friend or maybe small nuts will give you pro at waist for the fun exit moves. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
| FUN, FUN, FUN and worth the wait at the base. This route provides clean cracks which are easily protectable. I'm a girl with poor off-width skills and I can tell you none were needed at the top. Standard climbing technique with a single ankle scrapping heal toe for one move only. Holds appear all the way making this an enjoyable route. Susan |
By Brian B Ballard From: Boulder, CO May 16, 2010
| Wonderful route. I liked walking a 4.5 up the OW and then a .75 before cramming around. |
By Wooderson From: Seattle, WA Oct 16, 2010
| Pitch 2 is chossy and probably worth passing. A #5 Camalot would help with the gnarly off width, but two #4's made it work for me. Save some strength for the roof, it's really more of an endurance test than any single hard move. |
By Eric Haye From: Boulder Sep 3, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Great route and I don't think it sees much action for some reason a my belayer stated that debris was coming down during the climb. The start demands your attention and focus. Better to stay low when moving right after your first piece to gain the next crack. I only brought 1 #4 BD and wasted a lot of enery placing nuts in the crack. Bring 2 and leave the #5 down below and you'll be dandy. Awesome jug hold for pulling the roof can be found on the left just above your head as you begin. |
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