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Animal Cracker Rock
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Animal Cracker T 

Animal Cracker 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe & Dick Dorworth 60s
Page Views: 7,522
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Resting up, getting ready for the crux

Description 

Animal Cracker is the prominent flake leading into an offwidth on the Southwest side of Animal Cracker Rock. Start up the finger crack in the flake, traverse a bit right to a hand crack, then follow the flake up and right. Finally grunt up the offwidth through a roof to a set of chain anchors. Rap from here or continue for another pitch.

Pitch 2 angles left into a hand crack. Climb this, which seams up quickly for a runout, yet easy finish on jugs to the top of the formation. Gear anchor needed, with a walkoff to the climber's right.

Protection 

Finger sized gear up through #5 C4 (or 4.5 camalot) for the first pitch. Hand sized pieces for the second pitch. Walk off.


Photos of Animal Cracker Slideshow Add Photo
The route...
The route...
The Animal Cracker
The Animal Cracker
Near the flake.
Near the flake.
Ridding the flake
Ridding the flake
Jed, heading up Animal Cracker
Jed, heading up Animal Cracker
A stuck foot inside an off-width is never fun...bu...
A stuck foot inside an off-width is never fun...bu...

Comments on Animal Cracker Add Comment
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006

You might be able to protect the final crux moves with some RPs instead of a giant cam. I left mine on the ground. A single set of old style camalots to a #4 will protect this route well until the exit moves. If you like to sew it up, add an extra #1 or #2. A #6 friend or maybe small nuts will give you pro at waist for the fun exit moves.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

FUN, FUN, FUN and worth the wait at the base. This route provides clean cracks which are easily protectable. I'm a girl with poor off-width skills and I can tell you none were needed at the top. Standard climbing technique with a single ankle scrapping heal toe for one move only. Holds appear all the way making this an enjoyable route.

Susan
By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2010

Wonderful route. I liked walking a 4.5 up the OW and then a .75 before cramming around.
By Wooderson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010

Pitch 2 is chossy and probably worth passing.

A #5 Camalot would help with the gnarly off width, but two #4's made it work for me.

Save some strength for the roof, it's really more of an endurance test than any single hard move.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route and I don't think it sees much action for some reason a my belayer stated that debris was coming down during the climb.

The start demands your attention and focus. Better to stay low when moving right after your first piece to gain the next crack.

I only brought 1 #4 BD and wasted a lot of enery placing nuts in the crack. Bring 2 and leave the #5 down below and you'll be dandy. Awesome jug hold for pulling the roof can be found on the left just above your head as you begin.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 23, 2013

If interested in topped out this climb I recommend going to climbers right off the p1 belay into the crack labeled as "Unknown 10?" in the guide book. It provides a fun 5.6 hand crack to the top.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 17, 2013

Do it!

Used 1 #4 and 1 #5 for the top.
By Scott Thalacker
From: Logan, UT
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

One #4 and one #5 was enough for the OW (french free). This may feel like 10a to an 'offwidth climber'. It felt much harder than thin slice or bloody fingers to me. At the roof, the flake is pretty close below you - don't blow it there, even with good gear. I would have hit it if I'd fallen there.