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 ADVANCED
AC/DC Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andy's 10 S 
Angus S 
Back in Black S 
For Those About To Rock (We Salute You) S 
Givin the Dog a Bone S 
Hell's Bells S 
If God's On The Left T 
Lemme Put My Love Into You S 
Logical Fallacy T 
Send For The Man S 
Shot Down in Flames S 
Thunderstruck S 
Whole Lotta Rosie S 
Unsorted Routes:

Angus 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Angus: Not the hard part. Photo by John Ross.

Description 

Fun, challenging climbing with some awkward-seeming moves on small to medium edges.

Begin and the line immediately starts with the small edges and a bit of overhanging rock. Dancing back and forth while searching for less-than-large or less-than-positive edges is required until a brief respite is reached at the third bolt. The hard part awaits: moving up and left past the fourth bolt onto tenuous, off-camber holds until finally more welcoming holds are reached.

Continue up and to the left pair of the two sets of chains that are visible.

Location 

Near the top of the right side of the gully (just uphill past a lower-angled ramp that angles up from left to right) there are three bolted routes; Angus is the center of the three.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Givin the Dog a Bone to the left).


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 5, 2008

So I've got to confess: I've gotten on this twice and still haven't managed it without falling (and I flashed the .11b to the left—go figure).

Granted, there are extenuating circumstances (exhaustion, injury), but I find this to be a tricky route.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 4, 2009

Finally got back on and sent this.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 19, 2009

This route has some tricky, inobvious climbing. There's more flaky grittiness on this than any other on the wall. In one section, pretty much everything you put your feet on crumbles. Probably my least favorite route on the wall, but still worth a go.