Anguish 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965) |
| Submitted By: | JesseLittleton on Sep 24, 2007 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).
P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.
P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit and make
delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.
Location 40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.
Protection I felt like placing the pro was pretty strenuous, but I am leading pretty close to my limit at 5.8.
By JSH
Administrator
Aug 18, 2009
| I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well. |
By Gunkiemike
May 19, 2010
| It's easy to believe that the reachy moves between the ledges that JSH mentions were not part of the original line, having seen how short Burt Angrist is (grin). |
By JSH
Administrator
May 21, 2010
| ... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion." |
By BrianRH
Mar 19, 2012
| strenuous pro indeed on that third pitch... whoever pounded in the manky piton just below the crux was quite a stud. surprised at how pleasant the 5.2 second pitch was. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012
| Did P1 and really enjoyed it. Interesting move out of the corner, on to the face. |
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