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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965)
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: JesseLittleton on Sep 24, 2007
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P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).

P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.

P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit and make
delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.


40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.


I felt like placing the pro was pretty strenuous, but I am leading pretty close to my limit at 5.8.

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Aug 18, 2009

I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well.

By Gunkiemike
May 19, 2010

It's easy to believe that the reachy moves between the ledges that JSH mentions were not part of the original line, having seen how short Burt Angrist is (grin).

May 21, 2010

... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion."

By BrianRH
Mar 19, 2012

strenuous pro indeed on that third pitch... whoever pounded in the manky piton just below the crux was quite a stud. surprised at how pleasant the 5.2 second pitch was.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

Did P1 and really enjoyed it. Interesting move out of the corner, on to the face.