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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Anguish 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965)
Page Views: 1,437
Submitted By: JesseLittleton on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Description 

P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).

P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.

P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit and make
delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.

Location 

40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.

Protection 

I felt like placing the pro was pretty strenuous, but I am leading pretty close to my limit at 5.8.


Comments on Anguish Add Comment
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By JSH
Administrator
Aug 18, 2009

I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well.
By Gunkiemike
May 19, 2010

It's easy to believe that the reachy moves between the ledges that JSH mentions were not part of the original line, having seen how short Burt Angrist is (grin).
By JSH
Administrator
May 21, 2010

... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion."
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Mar 19, 2012

strenuous pro indeed on that third pitch... whoever pounded in the manky piton just below the crux was quite a stud. surprised at how pleasant the 5.2 second pitch was.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

Did P1 and really enjoyed it. Interesting move out of the corner, on to the face.
By Kurtz
May 28, 2014

Could not find P3. We hit the GT about 30 ft right of the Glypnod corner. The roof above us (left and right) was way harder than 5.8. Another party looked too. Finally, we finished on Glypnod and they took a line about 30 ft to the right which they said was about 5.10a. Can anyone provide more info?
By SethG
May 28, 2014

The last pitch of Anguish is on the main face of the cliff just around the corner (to the left) from the Three Pines rap route. I think your friends did it. And it isn't 5.10. It has steep 5.8 moves up to the overhang (this is the crux bit) and then the overhang itself is easier.