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Angora Grotto 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Douglas T on Aug 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Angora Grotto shown in orange. Tunnel Vision in p...

Description 

Ignore the first 3 bolts on this climb, using the off-fingers to hand splitter crack up to the roof. More reasonable bolts will protect the crux roof and the surprisingly fun climbing to the anchor just below the lone cedar.

Two 70m rappels to the ground, or use two 70 m ropes and set up a BIG Top Rope for the hordes at the base.

Location 

From the top anchor of "Tunnel Vision", scramble easy up and right to an anchor at the base of a splitter off-fingers to hands crack.

Protection 

Lots of QD's and some cams from .3 to .75.


Photos of Angora Grotto Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the crux on Angora Grotto.
BETA PHOTO: Just above the crux on Angora Grotto.
Starting up the (bolted) crack on Angora.  Bring .3-.75 gear if you'd rather ignore the bolts on this section.
BETA PHOTO: Starting up the (bolted) crack on Angora. Bring ....

Comments on Angora Grotto Add Comment
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By Douglas T
Aug 18, 2013

Several loose blocks half-way up that have diminished the quality of the climb and had threatened to drop on the unaware masses below have been reunited with Mother Earth. The climb is now as safe as it is fun.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 18, 2013

This is an enjoyable line packed with variety and well-protected, interesting moves. If it were at ground level, it would be every bit as popular as Cunning Stunt, if not more so.
By blakeherrington
Nov 10, 2013

The bolt protecting the roof move ( below climber's left foot in the photo) is visibly corroded. Other bolts on this thing may be bad as well - they have the same KONG hangers which lead to total failure under bodyweight on an UTW route or two.

There are adequate gear opportunities to lead this without worrying too much, but I wouldn't place much faith in the bolts themselves.